xXBlessedWithDeathXx Posted December 10, 2007 Report Posted December 10, 2007 I think they are sealing. I did the leak down like banshee man said below and didnt see any bubbles but I mite try another like blessedwithdeath saidto be on the sure side. Although I dont have a boost bottle blessedwithdeath cos i didnt think i cud handle the hp them babies add!!! :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Ive stock reeds wikth the metal reed stoppers. Il check and double check all the reed set up 2strokespirit. Thanks. O do I need to take them off to check them? Or is that a stupid question?? :geek: I love the way the help on this site just keeps coming. :beer: yes, take them off and look them over. then do what i mentioned above to make sure you dont have a new leak lol. and yea, watch out for them boost bottles they are the shit if your a newbie. i have to get one (not). Quote
Bansh-eman Posted December 10, 2007 Report Posted December 10, 2007 I think they are sealing. I did the leak down like banshee man said below and didnt see any bubbles but I mite try another like blessedwithdeath saidto be on the sure side. Although I dont have a boost bottle blessedwithdeath cos i didnt think i cud handle the hp them babies add!!! :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Ive stock reeds wikth the metal reed stoppers. Il check and double check all the reed set up 2strokespirit. Thanks. O do I need to take them off to check them? Or is that a stupid question?? :geek: I love the way the help on this site just keeps coming. :beer: fitz just to be clear, what i had said before is NOT a leak down test.... you need to make a leak down tester that builds pressure in your motor that should hold for a certain amount of time. click the link in my sig to see what is needed to make one. Quote
fitz18 Posted December 10, 2007 Author Report Posted December 10, 2007 Do you run stock carbs? Yeah 2strokespirit im running stock carbs. Y what ya thinking? Quote
2strokespirit Posted December 10, 2007 Report Posted December 10, 2007 I am starting to think, if you don't have any air leaks, jetting is ok, reeds is ok, than maybe there is a passage block in the carbs. have you put the carbs under some compressed air? Something else... Does the bike Idle? Say the bike idles and you rev it, does it rev easy? Does it looses revs easy or is it loosing revs very slow and revs by its self when you take your thumb of the throttle, if you rev it freely while not riding it? Quote
fitz18 Posted December 10, 2007 Author Report Posted December 10, 2007 I am starting to think, if you don't have any air leaks, jetting is ok, reeds is ok, than maybe there is a passage block in the carbs. have you put the carbs under some compressed air? Something else... Does the bike Idle? Say the bike idles and you rev it, does it rev easy? Does it looses revs easy or is it loosing revs very slow and revs by its self when you take your thumb of the throttle, if you rev it freely while not riding it? 2stroke you are a fountain of knowledge. The bike does idle but it was idles quite high and when you rev it it takes a little time to get back to normal idle. Not really long but a bit longer. It does not rev by itself at all. I blew all the jets in the carbs out with air but not the carbs themselves. Quote
ohiobanshee Posted December 11, 2007 Report Posted December 11, 2007 The bike does idle but it was idles quite high and when you rev it it takes a little time to get back to normal idle. Not really long but a bit longer. It does not rev by itself at all. I blew all the jets in the carbs out with air but not the carbs themselves. You have a air leak somewhere. Do a leakdown,you will find one. :thumbsup: Quote
2strokespirit Posted December 14, 2007 Report Posted December 14, 2007 Did you find the problem???? It sounded like a air leak. Quote
. Posted December 14, 2007 Report Posted December 14, 2007 have you had this bogging issue since you put the cylinders on? And what exactly do you mean by that in 1st and 2nd gear it bogs? Is it just bogging in the gears or bogging in the low rpm range all together? If you rev it and drop the clutch in first and keep the rpms up will it stay in powerband? Does firehead know the measurement on the exhaust port? What complete engine setup was he running with it? Quote
fitz18 Posted December 18, 2007 Author Report Posted December 18, 2007 Hi guys, just an update. I put the needles in middle clip and adjusted my air screws and the bike is not bogging as much but it still does a little. The mains are perfetc. I did a plug chop and they have a perfect tan ring. My floats are just as the clymers specs but the bike still leaks fule out of the long tubes at the bottoms of the carbs. Really getting pissed off. What yas think Im doing wrong?? . Im not sure of the set up firehead was runnign or any details about the ports. Yes it is only bogging since the cylingers went on. Why what are you thinkg?? Someone help me sort this bitch for once and for all!!! :: Quote
. Posted December 19, 2007 Report Posted December 19, 2007 they are dune ported cylinders, which means the exhaust port was most likely opened (raised). They will give you more top end, but opening the exhaust will kill your low end and thats where you are getting your bogging from. Playing around with the pilot and needle will help some, but compared to stock cylinders, you'll never have that low end pull you are used to having. Dune cylinders are more of a "on the pipe" type cylinder (in powerband) I forget what size pilots you are running but with out the air box lid on, I'm running 30 pilots, with the lid on, I'd run 27.5's. You might get a little better response back. What reeds are you running? Boyeson dual stage epoxy reeds will give you some better response over stock, and if you can afford it, some vforce are always a nice upgrade. As far as your floats go, the little needle piece that seals off the fuel from coming in gets wear marks in it, and sometimes stops sealing, even though measurements are correct. Might want to try getting new ones and see if it stops. They arent that expensive I think. Quote
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