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Posted

Hi guys, back on again for a bit more help with my rebuild. Firstly should the ball be welded onto the end of this shaft out of the clutch blasket? Ive been reading and I dont think it should. There was no ball bearing inside the clutch basket so im thinking the one welded on is it.

 

Secondly where does this rod go? I was lifing the engine out of the frame and it fell out and I want to be sure I put it back in the correct place.

 

Thanks guys

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Posted

no the ball should not be welded to the rod or the adjuster. the rod and the ball go inside the drive shaft that you clutch mounts on.

 

do your self a favor and go buy a clymers. it will show you step by step on what to do

Posted
No the ball should not be welded and that the push rod for the clutch. It slides into the shaft that the clutch basket is on.

 

Thanks for the reply mate. Just want to be putting her back together correctly. I have a clymers but just wanted to double check.

 

Even though my clucth worked fine should I still buy a new ball bearing and adjuster?

Posted
Thanks for the reply mate. Just want to be putting her back together correctly. I have a clymers but just wanted to double check.

 

Even though my clucth worked fine should I still buy a new ball bearing and adjuster?

 

It'd be a good time to throw a pancake bearing in there :beer:

Posted
Thanks for the reply mate. Just want to be putting her back together correctly. I have a clymers but just wanted to double check.

 

Even though my clucth worked fine should I still buy a new ball bearing and adjuster?

 

yes, if you dont put new stuff in there it's just a matter of time before the long rod welds itself to the ball thats already welded to the adjuster. as said before, if you can find one it's a realy good idea to put a pancake bearing adjuster in there. it has a flat bearing that replaces the large part of the adjuster so it will spin against the pressure plate rather than stick to it and rotate with it. thats a realy bad description of what it does but when you see one it will all make sense... i think there like $35, a stock adjuster is probably at least that...

Posted
yes, if you dont put new stuff in there it's just a matter of time before the long rod welds itself to the ball thats already welded to the adjuster. as said before, if you can find one it's a realy good idea to put a pancake bearing adjuster in there. it has a flat bearing that replaces the large part of the adjuster so it will spin against the pressure plate rather than stick to it and rotate with it. thats a realy bad description of what it does but when you see one it will all make sense... i think there like $35, a stock adjuster is probably at least that...

 

This may sound dumb but can I not just cut the ball bearing off the end of the adjuster and buy a new ball bearing?? Will this not work the same? :shrug:

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