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Posted

im reading .6 on the primary and i cant get it to read anything on the secondary with or withiout the caps on the wires. seems bad just cause of the primary reading but would it still run like this?? check my other post ( missing in midrange) for the problem im having, thanks oh ya coil read fine

Posted
im reading .6 on the primary and i cant get it to read anything on the secondary with or withiout the caps on the wires. seems bad just cause of the primary reading but would it still run like this?? check my other post ( missing in midrange) for the problem im having, thanks oh ya coil read fine

 

 

I did note that most of the Clymer manuals show the secondary test wrong for the banshee. You need to test from output1 to output2 wires. If you are not testing this way, you might try it. Most of the time, coils are tested bad but are actually good. They are VERY simple devices that rarely fail but the wires, caps, and terminations do fail on occasion. I recommend removing the wires as soon as things do not test correctly. This give s way to test the wires, coil, and caps, separately. If all check good, move on. Not the problem. Reduce plug gap and note any change in performance. If you have access to a scope or analyzer, then you can read the output from the cdi to the coild and figure out what is going on.

 

 

Brandon

Posted
Most of the time, coils are tested bad but are actually good. They are VERY simple devices that rarely fail but the wires, caps, and terminations do fail on occasion.

Word. :thumbsup:

Posted

u should have a reading on the secondary .2 to 10 ohms is fine on the primary thats a lead to lead check make sure u have the key off should read 10k-50k ohms

Posted
does the coil have to be mounted on the frame to be checked?

 

 

You can test the coil in or out of the bike. Always remove the input, low voltage leads before testing.

 

 

Brandon

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