coolant+bottled water

[2strokespirit]

Just make sure you run something in your radiator..... but I have some stories on antifreeze as well, but let me keep it for myself.

[RIPPEN]

First of all Iam curious... Are you a Saab or are you a GM tech??? So far your have said both so I was just curious.. Second I think your last reply my post was "interesting" and much more colorful than what you edited it to..bad show.. Actually it just confirmed what I have figured for quite sometime and that is your a arrogant tool.. But whatever, it appears your not much of a fan of mine either..

 

Back on topic..

In your second post of this thread you said that the green coolant is hard on rubber parts and shouldn't be used.. I knew this isn't necesarly the case and so I called a close friend that is ASE MASTER certified. Hate to say it, he didn't agree with you either.. This is basicly what he told me and what I have read..

 

The benifits to running the orange over green is longevity.. If you don't mind changing your coolantat say 50,000 miles you should be fine.. Whereas the orange is SUPPOSED to last longer for the 100,000 mark.. BUT from what he said and what I have recently read the switch to the orange or other color(based on manuf.) was not prompted due to the green being hard on rubber.. But instead found that with the green over quite some time begins to breakdown.. In both cooling properties and lubrication.. The lubrication componets in the orange don't break down as easly but some of the articals I have read also stated that it can take up to several thousand miles to become effective in prohibiting corrosion/rust.. But non of that really has to do with rubber.. Well.. To be honest nothing I have found says that green coolant is hard on rubber componets where as orange or another coolant isn't..

 

All I have found is that the only REAL SOLID benifits the Orange holds is longevity.. Its formulated more to prvide protection against LONG TERM corrosion and help lubricate bearings.. Most all the different manuf. want you to run a coolant that was more made for their product. IE maybe the Dexcool has more lubricating properties for for GM(maybe differnt bearing design/requirements) than say the yellow(ford) stuff does.. Now if you put all of that crap aside I didn't see one artical that said these newer brands even cool more. Its strickly longevity.. That would be like saying not to use good old 10w-30 on a lawn mower because its only good to 3,000 miles but to buy the good 5,000 mile shit Or not to use unleaded fuel bacause over time it will leave crap in your carbs.. Green coolant is JUST FINE in a banshee.. Being that the green stuff was in mind while designing the Banshee its fine..

 

Oh and btw.. I run engine ice :yelrotflmao:

 

RIPPEN

[Snopczynski]

GM has owned Saab since 1990. Like I said, I am done, end of discussion.

[hyperlite33]

First of all Iam curious... Are you a Saab or are you a GM tech??? So far your have said both so I was just curious.. Second I think your last reply my post was "interesting" and much more colorful than what you edited it to..bad show.. Actually it just confirmed what I have figured for quite sometime and that is your a arrogant tool.. But whatever, it appears your not much of a fan of mine either..

 

Back on topic..

In your second post of this thread you said that the green coolant is hard on rubber parts and shouldn't be used.. I knew this isn't necesarly the case and so I called a close friend that is ASE MASTER certified. Hate to say it, he didn't agree with you either.. This is basicly what he told me and what I have read..

 

The benifits to running the orange over green is longevity.. If you don't mind changing your coolantat say 50,000 miles you should be fine.. Whereas the orange is SUPPOSED to last longer for the 100,000 mark.. BUT from what he said and what I have recently read the switch to the orange or other color(based on manuf.) was not prompted due to the green being hard on rubber.. But instead found that with the green over quite some time begins to breakdown.. In both cooling properties and lubrication.. The lubrication componets in the orange don't break down as easly but some of the articals I have read also stated that it can take up to several thousand miles to become effective in prohibiting corrosion/rust.. But non of that really has to do with rubber.. Well.. To be honest nothing I have found says that green coolant is hard on rubber componets where as orange or another coolant isn't..

 

All I have found is that the only REAL SOLID benifits the Orange holds is longevity.. Its formulated more to prvide protection against LONG TERM corrosion and help lubricate bearings.. Most all the different manuf. want you to run a coolant that was more made for their product. IE maybe the Dexcool has more lubricating properties for for GM(maybe differnt bearing design/requirements) than say the yellow(ford) stuff does.. Now if you put all of that crap aside I didn't see one artical that said these newer brands even cool more. Its strickly longevity.. That would be like saying not to use good old 10w-30 on a lawn mower because its only good to 3,000 miles but to buy the good 5,000 mile shit Or not to use unleaded fuel bacause over time it will leave crap in your carbs.. Green coolant is JUST FINE in a banshee.. Being that the green stuff was in mind while designing the Banshee its fine..

 

Oh and btw.. I run engine ice :yelrotflmao:

 

RIPPEN

 

All I can say is :thumbsup:

[jayzx10r]

So what has changed in water pump seal design or radiator hose material that necessitates an antifreeze with a lubricant? The formula used today is basically the one developed and used since 1948...it hasn't changed much since then. (It was actually first developed in 1859)

So my question again...it was used through the 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s, and still now. Why do we now need anti-freeze/boil with a lubricant?

 

I'm bored...I should be out riding.

[RIPPEN]

GM has owned Saab since 1990. Like I said, I am done, end of discussion.

Yeah I hadn't realized that untill after my post was made.. So my bad with that..

 

 

So what has changed in water pump seal design or radiator hose material that necessitates an antifreeze with a lubricant? The formula used today is basically the one developed and used since 1948...it hasn't changed much since then. (It was actually first developed in 1859)

So my question again...it was used through the 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s, and still now. Why do we now need anti-freeze/boil with a lubricant?

 

I'm bored...I should be out riding.

From my understanding is the "lubrications" help with the bearing in the water pumps and Iam guessing it also helps the coolant just flow more smoothly.. Thats what I was saying above... There isn't THAT much that has changed and from my reading the only thing that did change is materials in the coolant that are supposed to help keep the coolant good for longer.. The green stuff they say begines to break down before the new and approved..

 

Bottom line is there is no reason whatsoever that you shouldn't be able to run the good o green stuff in your banshee..

 

RIPPEN