clutch ball and rod welded together

[MDS2106]

I don't know how the hell it happened.I pulled the bike off of the truck, my son ran it around abit to warm it up and pulled it up on the dyno.The first pass the dyno had a problem and didn't get a read,the second pull as he slowed down the drum,with the clutch pulled in,the rod and ball welded and caused the bike to jump as the tires tried to lock up.The dyno showed that i had more torque than h.p. How can that be? Anybody know what could have caused this?My clutch was adjusted correctly and I had the proper amount of trans fluid.Where can I buy the pancake bearing so this shit don't happen again...

 

 

Thanks

mark

[MSBansheeDrags]

I don't know how the hell it happened.I pulled the bike off of the truck, my son ran it around abit to warm it up and pulled it up on the dyno.The first pass the dyno had a problem and didn't get a read,the second pull as he slowed down the drum,with the clutch pulled in,the rod and ball welded and caused the bike to jump as the tires tried to lock up.The dyno showed that i had more torque than h.p. How can that be? Anybody know what could have caused this?My clutch was adjusted correctly and I had the proper amount of trans fluid.Where can I buy the pancake bearing so this shit don't happen again...

Thanks

mark

 

 

FAST racing has them...look at the top of the page...he is a major sponsor...name is Jeff....he is a good guy and will hook you up....dbr

[Bansh-eman]

if it welded chances are your clutch was not adjust as properly as you thought

[MDS2106]

He had the clutch pulled in when it happened,so i really don't think it was the adjustment..

[blowit]

He had the clutch pulled in when it happened,so i really don't think it was the adjustment..

 

 

That is exactly right, with the clutch in, adjustment simple does not matter. Bottom line, the dyno was THE problem. They kill more clutch rods than any form of riding. Those damn inertial dynos! They just take too long to spool down and that is where the problem lyes.

 

 

 

Brandon

[Bansh-eman]

oh it happend when he pulled it... i thought i read that it happend while running it up and when he pulled it the bike jumped forward...

 

 

edit: have you had the chance to try and remove it? if so was it stuck in there or where you able to slide it out?

Edited September 22, 2007 by Bansh-eman

[wesw]

the reason your ball and rod welded was the dyno was spinning at 70mph probably and you pulled the clutch in and have this massive amt of force driving the wheels and causing the clutch rod to weld.

 

you will probably have to split the cases to get it out, i know it sucks.

 

get a new rod, ball and pancake bearing.

 

 

i did the same thing on a dyno. your best bet it to if you dont run a bearing is to let the motor slow down or use the brake.

 

but get the bearing.

[MDS2106]

Luckily it wasn't to bad.The rod and ball and the adjustment screw were all welded together but the actuator side still looked new. So once I popped the adjustment screw away from the ball the rod/ball slid right out with a magnet...

 

 

 

 

What would make torque #s be higher than hp#s ?

Edited September 22, 2007 by MDS2106

[locogato11283]

call FAST..

[wesw]

What would make torque #s be higher than hp#s ?

 

your clutch is actually slipping causing the dyno to read more torque. when mine welded it was making like 90ft of torque lol i was like right.

[blowit]

Luckily it wasn't to bad.The rod and ball and the adjustment screw were all welded together but the actuator side still looked new. So once I popped the adjustment screw away from the ball the rod/ball slid right out with a magnet...

What would make torque #s be higher than hp#s ?

 

 

On an inertial dyno, there are a multitude of things that may skew accurate data from the dyno. It is hard to say if the data is accurate or you have issues with your bike. If you want to post up your data, maybe I can help. Generally speaking, if you have strong torque numbers, that would indicate the clutch is holding. You may be way off on jetting up top. You may have also reached a point of clutch slip at a certain torque value and the dyno load decreased for that reason. Also could just be tire slip. You are using tire slip calcs right??

 

The reasons those balls weld are not really the dynos' fault but a fault with the banshee design. There is not sufficient axial load absorbtion on that one ball. Heaver springs just make things worse. It would do exactly the same thing if you coast down a large hill with the clutch in.

 

 

 

Brandon

[MDS2106]

I was actually putting it on the dyno to dail in some 34mm pjs I installed.I am running 152 mains and figured it would be rich, but the sniffer said it was pretty close. Kinda hard to believe since the bike bogs some on top in the upper gears.I thought I would just fine tune it on the dyno but this shit happens.Anyways I pulled peak power in 1.7 seconds it showed the torque to be 67# and the hp to be 50. I was running the dyno with turf tamers on the rear and he made the pull in 3rd gear.

Edited September 22, 2007 by MDS2106

[wesw]

you need to run slicks or flat track tires on a dyno.

 

knobbies will slip and give false readings.

 

 

what jetting are you running with them pj 34s, what motor, pipes, who ported it. what pilot, needle, clip, you said 152 mains. im pretty good with a set of pjs.

[MDS2106]

Its a 350 drag ported by RB Racing,T-5 pipes, V- force II reeds,with +4 timing.The carbs have 52 pilots,152 mains and If I remember correctly it has CGL needles they are in the middle clip.