Arizonaduner Posted June 29, 2007 Report Posted June 29, 2007 My rear sprocket is toast. When I replace it, I think my choices are 39-43 tooth (It's got a 41T). I would like to keep my stock front sprocket (It and chain are almost new) and most of my riding will be at Glamis. Very soon I will have some PWK 35's, ported cyls, and Vforce 3's. I plan on keeping a stock crank (Welded, but not stroked). I ride pretty aggressive, but just play riding. What gearing (Rear sprocket) would you guys recommend? I've never ridden my Banshee at Glamis yet, I just got it. Should I go with steel or aluminum? Thanks, Steve Tucson AZ 96 Banshee Quote
XxMeltIcexX Posted June 29, 2007 Report Posted June 29, 2007 I run 15/42 gearing and i always start in second gear, 14/41 would be nice (what you had), Porting will allow you to pull more teeth, i might go with 16/42 as i think ill pull it fine.. Sounds like what you had is a good start, sprockets are cheap so try a few, some recommend steel and some aluminum, ive run both but i never keep them long enough to notice a difference.. I see you live in Tucson, same here man - where you live??? I'm Up at the base of the tortolita mtns. Closest cross roads are Como/Moore. Eric Quote
Arizonaduner Posted June 29, 2007 Author Report Posted June 29, 2007 I run 15/42 gearing and i always start in second gear, 14/41 would be nice (what you had), Porting will allow you to pull more teeth, i might go with 16/42 as i think ill pull it fine.. Sounds like what you had is a good start, sprockets are cheap so try a few, some recommend steel and some aluminum, ive run both but i never keep them long enough to notice a difference.. I see you live in Tucson, same here man - where you live??? I'm Up at the base of the tortolita mtns. Closest cross roads are Como/Moore. Eric Eric, I live in Sahuarita and work at the Komatsu Proving Grounds. I want to catch up with you pretty soon. I'm gonna move on some PWK 35's but I don't know if I should go with the Airstrykers or not. I'll PM you and talk some more about it. Steve Quote
Wallrat Posted June 30, 2007 Report Posted June 30, 2007 A lot will depend on the paddles you run but generally its a good idea to change from stock gearing when you head out to the sandbox. Usually that's in the form of dropping 1 tooth on the front sprocket since they're cheap. But since you're doing the rear, the equivalent would be adding 3 teeth. That's a pretty good setup for a piped shee, but once you get porting it'll all change again depending on the port work. Definitely go steel, aluminum sprockets don't even last a whole season. Quote
Justintoxicated Posted July 1, 2007 Report Posted July 1, 2007 A lot will depend on the paddles you run but generally its a good idea to change from stock gearing when you head out to the sandbox. Usually that's in the form of dropping 1 tooth on the front sprocket since they're cheap. But since you're doing the rear, the equivalent would be adding 3 teeth. That's a pretty good setup for a piped shee, but once you get porting it'll all change again depending on the port work. Definitely go steel, aluminum sprockets don't even last a whole season. What wallrat said is right on. I would recomend changing the front and keeping the one you have now as well. It's easier to change the front than the rear. If the rear is shot then go with the 43. However make sure your chain is long enough. It is harder to change the rear than the front sprocket. Quote
Bansh88 Posted July 4, 2007 Report Posted July 4, 2007 Becaus ethe front is 10x easier to swith, Id experiment with different front sprockets. I've run a dropped front tooth for several years. When I got my '06, I ran with the stock sprockets. I'm sold. I seem to get more out of each gear. Better for faster riding. My opinion. Quote
swrbansheeboy Posted July 4, 2007 Report Posted July 4, 2007 my bikes ported/piped/+4 timing/milled head and i run 13/43 gearing. i sacrifice the top end for the power in the idiot holes and trails. i can bog it down and pull right back up on the pipe when i need to but it all depends on what kind of riding you want to do... Quote
bansheeryder21 Posted August 1, 2007 Report Posted August 1, 2007 If you are going to port your cylinders and get 35 pwk's you can run longer gearing especially if you are going to want to be fast up the hill. I run 14/40 with 2nd gear starts and there isn't a bike that can keep up with me unless it is stroked. Look at my sig for my set up. If I were you, I would at least run 14/41(stock). If not that, try 15/41 or 14/40-39. Quote
XxMeltIcexX Posted August 1, 2007 Report Posted August 1, 2007 I would at least run 14/41(stock). If not that, try 15/41 or 14/40-39. 14/42 is stock. Quote
fastbanshee8 Posted August 1, 2007 Report Posted August 1, 2007 14/42 is stock. I just looked in my Clymer's manual to make sure of the gearing, and 13/42 is stock for 1987-1989, and 14/41 is stock for 1990-on. Quote
bansheeryder21 Posted August 1, 2007 Report Posted August 1, 2007 I just looked in my Clymer's manual to make sure of the gearing, and 13/42 is stock for 1987-1989, and 14/41 is stock for 1990-on. That is correct!!! Quote
phxrider Posted August 27, 2007 Report Posted August 27, 2007 I dune more then I drag, and I'm running 13/41 with a piped bike and 20x10x10 8 paddle Haulers. This setup works great! Quote
grounded Posted August 28, 2007 Report Posted August 28, 2007 What size haulers are those on B-rider21's ride? I'm running 20x10x10 s , I know I'm spinning too much, instead of re gearing , I wanted the haulers for more ground clearance and better ride. Quote
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