DaveVato Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Having a problem after the install of +6 Swinger I have a Wheelie bar mount on my swinger and DMC 916 pipe. The wheelie bar mount hits the bottom of the silencer. Problem is I am going to Silver lake on Thursday, nothing like last minute. Anyway when my 245lbs tanker body sits on the it no the silence rests on the wheelie bar mount. How do I adjust the stock rear to be as stiff as possible. I don't have time to get a new spring until after I get back.... Here is a pic of the swinger: http://www.theweberproject.com/gallery/v/B...300113.JPG.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawarriorman Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 You weigh 245 and are using a stock shock on a +6 swinger. Not much you can do. Tighten the preload collars down all the way. But honestly its not going to make much difference. You can stiffen the compression, but that only slows how fast it can compress, not how far it will compress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveVato Posted June 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 You weigh 245 and are using a stock shock on a +6 swinger. Not much you can do. Tighten the preload collars down all the way. But honestly its not going to make much difference. You can stiffen the compression, but that only slows how fast it can compress, not how far it will compress. Thats kinda what I figured, I called GT thunder, they are going to overnight a 425 spring and hopefully that will help. Whats the best way to install the spring on the rear shock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh88 Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Anything over +4 MUST have a new or rebuilt shock. At 245, you shoulda got a new shock before the wheelie bar and the swinger. Rebuild with new spring is only $200 or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveVato Posted June 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Anything over +4 MUST have a new or rebuilt shock. At 245, you shoulda got a new shock before the wheelie bar and the swinger.Rebuild with new spring is only $200 or so. You think the heavier spring will help for now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitmare67 Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Stock banshee shocks are garbage all the way around. Even if the rear shock is rebuilt, revalved - its still a POS. Hope you get by ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 I would like to know who told you that, or who did you rebuild. Because they suck at rebuilds. I have done mine and it works quite well. Ohlins isnt a bunch of retards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevy7398 Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 i could spend a bunch of money and rebuild a ford and its still a ford. spend a little more and just get a chevy. same with the shock, you can get the stocker rebuilt and yes it a bit better, but for a little more you can get a new one from a name brand company and have a way better shock built right from the start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveVato Posted June 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 So you think cranking down the 425 Eibach spring on the stock shock will keep me good until I can get/rebuild the rear shock? Whats the best way to replace the spring, any tools that I need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 i like my ford ranger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNBRAD Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 I would like to know who told you that, or who did you rebuild. Because they suck at rebuilds. I have done mine and it works quite well. Ohlins isnt a bunch of retards. No kidding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsgetthisdone Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 I would like to know who told you that, or who did you rebuild. Because they suck at rebuilds. I have done mine and it works quite well. Ohlins isnt a bunch of retards. No kidding. Mine works well for about 20 minutes, than it fades. It really is junk... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 Just to add fuel to the fire here: whoever told several of you that cranking down the preload on the shock stiffens it, it more retarded than you guys are. Preload is a ride height adjustment only (read: indexes spring to shock) unless you figure out a way to bind some coils up while you are doing it, then you have not changed the spring rate (the springs resistance to load). I am assuming someone will argue with me about this.................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNBRAD Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 I think stiffening the spring is the wrong verb perhaps. Maybe instead of stiffen, use increased compression or tension. Therefore by increasing preload, it will require a greater force to bottom out your shock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 I think stiffening the spring is the wrong verb perhaps. Maybe instead of stiffen, use increased compression or tension. Therefore by increasing preload, it will require a greater force to bottom out your shock. I would still like to make sure that it is understood that adjusting preload on the shock does not increase the shocks ability to carry load. All it does is raise the bike frame higher off of the ground. Since a coil spring is basically just a funky torsion spring, the more you compress the spring upon itself, the more the coils bind. The spring may seem stiffer when you crank the preload down, but really all you are doing is compressing it so that the lighter progressive windings are bound and taken out of the working range of the shock, thus limiting your suspension travel. To be a biot sensational, you might as well just take the shock off and bolt in a solid bar in it's place if you are increasing spring preload to compensate for a longer swingarm or heavier rider. :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.