IROOST1 Posted April 8, 2007 Report Posted April 8, 2007 I have tried tons of crap. stock Carbs are synced, rebuilt, cleaned, jetted, i just put new oring on choke, plugs new, i even tried a hotter plug. It just wont start fast. it takes 30 kicks to get it started, but once its running, its perfect. The engine is fresh. lots of compression, spark isnt as strong as i would like but its there. i have swapped coils. The only other thing i am going to do is get some race gas. when i first rebuilt it, started first kick with my race gas. thats the only thing i can think of. any help please..... Quote
dajogejr Posted April 8, 2007 Report Posted April 8, 2007 When you say lots of compression....do you mean by feel of the kickstarter...or by an actual gauge? What is your elevation, stock head or aftermarket with domes, and what does the compression read? You've cleaned out the pilot circuit completely, as in with a wire through the pilots, carb, ect? What's the pickup gap set at? Quote
fastrthnu Posted April 9, 2007 Report Posted April 9, 2007 When you say lots of compression....do you mean by feel of the kickstarter...or by an actual gauge?What is your elevation, stock head or aftermarket with domes, and what does the compression read? You've cleaned out the pilot circuit completely, as in with a wire through the pilots, carb, ect? What's the pickup gap set at? does sound like bad compreesion huh? Quote
dajogejr Posted April 9, 2007 Report Posted April 9, 2007 Yep... And race gas shouldn't even make an engine that needs it start any better....all it does is stop a high compression motor and/or a motor with a lot of timing from detonating....no more, no less.!!! Quote
johnp Posted April 9, 2007 Report Posted April 9, 2007 Key on? Switch on RUN? Pet cock turned to the ON position? Tank full of gas? Disconnect the TORRS and I bet the shee fires right up. Quote
dajogejr Posted April 9, 2007 Report Posted April 9, 2007 Key on? Switch on RUN? Pet cock turned to the ON position? Tank full of gas? Disconnect the TORRS and I bet the shee fires right up. It says it's starting, just hard to start. Normally, if it's electrical....it will run worse when it warms up. Electrical fails once it gets hot. Also...if it were TORS related, normally it'll start fine, but...it will just BLAH past idle. A few other things to think about. Is the choke tube between the carbs in place? Are the slides in the right carb...AND...do you have the right carb bowl on the right carb? (The slides and bowls are carb specific...) Quote
IROOST1 Posted April 9, 2007 Author Report Posted April 9, 2007 120 lbs each cylinder cold, no tors, dont know what the pickup gap is(just reinstalled it when it was rebuilt). the choke tube is brand new and on, the slides are in correctly, bowls are on correct ones. Stock head. Plenty of gas and its on, i have clear lines so i know its got gas. The key assembly is removed and the switch is on. Elevation is 800 ft. and it has new mains and pilots, Quote
dajogejr Posted April 9, 2007 Report Posted April 9, 2007 Yeah, You've covered your basic bases for sure... The pickup gap is the gap between the two contact magnets and the pickup coil from your stator. The gap should be set between .015 and .018. Normally...though...too big a gap would make it run poorly at higher RPMs, not lower. Even though the jets are new, the passages could be clogged up a bit, it doesn't take much! Do you have a timing plate? Timing key? Have you checked to make sure it hasn't sheared? Do you have a friend with a spare set of carbs you could swap with, just to check? Quote
IROOST1 Posted April 9, 2007 Author Report Posted April 9, 2007 Yeah, You've covered your basic bases for sure...The pickup gap is the gap between the two contact magnets and the pickup coil from your stator. The gap should be set between .015 and .018. Normally...though...too big a gap would make it run poorly at higher RPMs, not lower. Even though the jets are new, the passages could be clogged up a bit, it doesn't take much! Do you have a timing plate? Timing key? Have you checked to make sure it hasn't sheared? Do you have a friend with a spare set of carbs you could swap with, just to check? stock timing plate is on there, i have another thats going on another banshee but i dont feel like pulling the flywheel. The timing key is the stock one but i can get it to start so i dont think it would be sheared. I just sold my 34's and i havent been able to find some 28's yet. All my friends ride 4 pokes so no. I dont want to sink any more into this banshee becasue i am going to be selling it. Just need to get it to start within a few kicks so i can sell it. I have had the carbs off 10 times to re-clean and check over when i jetted it. It just like to act up. Quote
yamaha04 Posted April 9, 2007 Report Posted April 9, 2007 maybe try new plugs? seems like everything else sounds good. Quote
Screaming Yellow Zonker Posted April 9, 2007 Report Posted April 9, 2007 have you checked your pilot jets for build up? I know you said you have been through the carbs a few times. Does it do that with the choke pulled or no choke? Quote
David Keith Posted April 10, 2007 Report Posted April 10, 2007 I have tried tons of crap. stock Carbs are synced, rebuilt, cleaned, jetted, i just put new oring on choke, plugs new, i even tried a hotter plug. It just wont start fast. it takes 30 kicks to get it started, but once its running, its perfect. The engine is fresh. lots of compression, spark isnt as strong as i would like but its there. i have swapped coils. The only other thing i am going to do is get some race gas. when i first rebuilt it, started first kick with my race gas. thats the only thing i can think of. any help please..... Sure sounds like the choke cross-over tube is unhooked or leaking... Quote
IROOST1 Posted April 10, 2007 Author Report Posted April 10, 2007 I have new plugs in it, even tried hotter plugs. The choke tube is new and connected. The choke doesnt make a difference when trying to get it to start. I have had the pilots out and could see through each hole. Quote
boonman Posted April 10, 2007 Report Posted April 10, 2007 My bike refused to start last week. I pulled it out of storage, and nothing. Low and behold, a good ass kickin carb cleanin action and it fired right up. It absolutely REFUSED to start. I suggest you pull the carbs back off, and go over everything slowly. Clean each jet with cleaner and compressed air. You say you have new mains and pilots, just curious why you had to replace jets, and replace other parts as well? Anyways, use cleaner, (I use brake cleaner) and compressed air to clean your jets. If need be, get a set of torch tip cleaners, and you can run one of those through the jet. Quote
IROOST1 Posted April 10, 2007 Author Report Posted April 10, 2007 I built this from the ground up and the carbs i bought needed jetting for the modifications i had, so i got some moose rebuild kits and larger mains and pilots. .20 over wisecos, stock head, bills pipes, boost bottle, proflow adapter w/K&N filter lid off. I am at 290 mains, 30 pilots, stock air jets, stock needles, middle clip. Maybe my jetting is a little off but it should start fast Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.