BigRed350x Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 (edited) Got a new honing tool. I've used those goofy little ball hones up to this point and I'm sick of them. Spent a few extra bucks and got a better one. I can change inserts out for aluminum, cast iron, etc. and it has cleaning brushes to catch the crap that comes off the cylinder, so cleanup is a breeze. Here's a set of dune-port cylinders I just did today. - Jared EDIT: Forgot to say... got it on ebay! Already honed like 5 sets of cylinders. LOL! Edited January 2, 2007 by BigRed350x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theshee Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Looks good... Very good work as usual! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeseat$$ Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Jared, Correct me if I'm wrong but is'nt that a deglazer for semi wheel cylinders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Jared,Correct me if I'm wrong but is'nt that a deglazer for semi wheel cylinders? No, its an actual honing tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shee-Male Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 What Grit you usin Big red? ...looks a little coarse for a moly ring app. Are you using plateauing stone/brushes afterwards?, what are you using for coolant/oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barrymaxx Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 I start with 100 grit paper then move to 220 grit. Just rub in a circular motion and your good. J/K :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 my pops used to use one where it was three stones that where set evenly spaced and where on spring loaded henges for tension, not sure what brand it was but the stones where enter changeable ... it worked very well for the application he was building... i know he tryed the ones you where talking about with the several small ball looking things on it , and he didnt like them either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 What Grit you usin Big red? ...looks a little coarse for a moly ring app.Are you using plateauing stone/brushes afterwards?, what are you using for coolant/oil? Yeah, those pics are before the finishing stone was used. LOL! I use the oil it recomments in the instructions, can't remember the name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 I start with 100 grit paper then move to 220 grit. Just rub in a circular motion and your good.J/K :thumbsup: I was about to freak out until I saw that J/K note. LOL! I actually know some people who "hone" like that. They always wonder why they go through a set of rings after about 30hrs. "Dude, I don't know why my cylinders aren't round..." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 my pops used to use one where it was three stones that where set evenly spaced and where on spring loaded henges for tension, not sure what brand it was but the stones where enter changeable ... it worked very well for the application he was building... i know he tryed the ones you where talking about with the several small ball looking things on it , and he didnt like them either Yeah, I was going to get one of those things you are talking about before I settled on this unit. This one is very nice and seems to have pretty good quality in its construction and has interchangeable stones and wipers for different applications, so I figure it was a pretty good deal. - Jared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 you can probly get some of the oil used at machine shops when your cutting on a lathe or a mill and use that... if worse comes to worse douse that fucker with wd-40 lol the main thing is to keep the stones clean and not let them fill up with metal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gipperz Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Looks like a hone for the ck-10 power hone that most engine shops use for a final hone after bore. You can "bore" a cylinder with that setup by hand and it will be pretty straight, Is that what your doing? Looks good, what stones are you going to use for the final cut? Keep us updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 you can probly get some of the oil used at machine shops when your cutting on a lathe or a mill and use that... if worse comes to worse douse that fucker with wd-40 lol the main thing is to keep the stones clean and not let them fill up with metal Well fancy that, I happen to work at a machine shop! LOL! You are talking about either way oil or soluble oil. I would imagine way oil would work better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Looks like a hone for the ck-10 power hone that most engine shops use for a final hone after bore. You can "bore" a cylinder with that setup by hand and it will be pretty straight, Is that what your doing? Looks good, what stones are you going to use for the final cut? Keep us updated. I just ordered it with a bunch of different stones. One set was a "rough stone" the other was a "finish stone" the finish stone more resembles a wet stone for sharpening knives. Dunno what the roughness value on it is or anything, but its a finer stone that the one I used for the pics above. I will post a comparison picture of the rough stone vs. the finish stone and what they do to the cylinder once I finish up later tonight. Right now I'm just taking a break and watching some TV and shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 (edited) Alright, here's two shots... first one is after the rough stone passes. Second shot is after the finishing stone passes and its to bore. Its tough to see in the pic, but there is a really really good cross-hatch pattern there. I just took the pic at a weird angle and it didn't show up. I am disappointed, but it looks just like any of the ones I've seen professionals do. haha! - Jared that's not residual scratches on the cylinder wall above the first transfer port, its from the wiper when I pulled the hone tool out without collapsing it. Ooops Edited January 2, 2007 by BigRed350x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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