kb247 Posted November 21, 2006 Report Posted November 21, 2006 I have an 87 shee with 65mm forged wiseco pistons, fmf fatty pipes and the rest is pretty much stock. It was running fine one day then I went to start it the next day and noticed the carbs were both leaking through the overflow, then could not start it. Will carb overhall fix my problem? Quote
Bansh-eman Posted November 21, 2006 Report Posted November 21, 2006 take your carbs apart and clean them... if it has sat for awhile you more then likely got shit builtup o your float valves and they are getting stuck and dumping fuel.... Quote
BANSHEEMANIAC Posted November 22, 2006 Report Posted November 22, 2006 tap on the carbs with the handle of a scwewdriver to see if it stops flowing out the overflow. if it does it is you floats seats are sticking. let me know. Quote
kb247 Posted November 22, 2006 Author Report Posted November 22, 2006 tap on the carbs with the handle of a scwewdriver to see if it stops flowing out the overflow. if it does it is you floats seats are sticking. let me know. Thanks I will try and get back to you! Quote
cotti Posted November 22, 2006 Report Posted November 22, 2006 (edited) i have this same problem out of one of my carbs the 1 with the choke on it i cleaned it about 5 times with gas,wd40, starting fluid and used the air compressor 2 clean the jet still the same problem i dont no what eles 2 do it runs fine but if i leave the gas on with the bike off i just keeps drippin out of the overflow i dont no what eles 2 do its sumthin with the floats im guess can ne 1 help me?? thanks alot Edited November 22, 2006 by cotti Quote
IROOST1 Posted November 22, 2006 Report Posted November 22, 2006 I have the same problem on my one carb, i just ordered a new needle to try and solve the mystery. I needed new main anyways so might as well while im in there. Quote
BANSHEEMANIAC Posted November 22, 2006 Report Posted November 22, 2006 this is how i set my float height. with the bowl off, let the float hang freely, put a fuel line on the carb and blow into it. air will blow into the bottom of the carb. now take and blow while you slowly raise the float up untill it stops air. you want it to be about halfway. if it dont stop the air, then you needle seat {float seat} is stoped up or bad. Quote
dajogejr Posted November 22, 2006 Report Posted November 22, 2006 Or...you could just flip over the carb upside down and make sure the bottom of the float is level....pretty much universal for carb floats. Quote
BANSHEEMANIAC Posted November 22, 2006 Report Posted November 22, 2006 yea, thats the easy way to cheack you float, but you dont run you carbs on you banshee upside down do you? if you turn it upside down, the float weight will push the needle seat down. the other way, you can tell exacly when your needle seat is working correctly. Quote
dajogejr Posted November 22, 2006 Report Posted November 22, 2006 yea, thats the easy way to cheack you float, but you dont run you carbs on you banshee upside down do you? if you turn it upside down, the float weight will push the needle seat down. the other way, you can tell exacly when your needle seat is working correctly. The seat isn't going anywhere, it's stationary... What you mean is the spring loaded tip on the needle itself, which is put on offroard carbs for going over bumps, etc. Just the weight of the float itself will NOT push that down, it requires more effort, like a gentle push....unless the spring is bad, which...I've personally never seen. Don't get me wrong, your method is great, but...you could very easily push that spring just as easy....and mine is no mess... (I try not to run it upside down...but...well, ya know. Shit happens... :yelrotflmao: Quote
BANSHEEMANIAC Posted November 22, 2006 Report Posted November 22, 2006 the float needle seat is not stationary, it moves up and down with the float, to cut the fuel on and off. you are right about checking the float height your way though. but to see if the needle seat is working correctly, use my method. im not trying to step on you at all. you have one bad banshee! Quote
dajogejr Posted November 22, 2006 Report Posted November 22, 2006 Sorry...I meant seat, and fired that response off too quickly!!! No harm, no foul...it's all good... Quote
kb247 Posted November 23, 2006 Author Report Posted November 23, 2006 (edited) Ok So I went down to my local motorcycle performance store and picked up a set of carb kits, I soaked the carbs overnight and then overhauled them. Thia fixed my fuel leakage problem on both carbs :thumbsup: So then i went to crank it up and, well funny thing is it would not start so i made sure that i was getting fire and i was so i figure its has to be a fuel problem......(I also slapped in a new set of spark plugs. again i start kicking and nothing.....untill i put my hand over the exaust and then well it fired right up. Now I've only owned the bike for about 3 months and it has always been hard to start when its cold. Could this hard starting be an exaust packing problem or what? By the way I have FMF fatty pipes and FMF powercore II silencers on it. Oh and i also checked the choke tube which is good. Edited November 23, 2006 by kb247 Quote
dajogejr Posted November 23, 2006 Report Posted November 23, 2006 Hard to start when cold is a good sign the top end is getting worn, if the Jetting isn't WAY out of whack. I'd do a compression test next. Quote
kb247 Posted November 23, 2006 Author Report Posted November 23, 2006 Actually I just did a top end overhall last week to it , because i was thinking the same thing. I have 65 MM wiseco forged pistons but everything else but the exhaust is stock. I know my main jets are 210, not sure what the pilots are, but i believe they are stock size. any idea what a good starting point would be. Oh yeah and before i did the top end rebuild i did a compression check and i had 117 in the left anf 70 in the right, which is why i went ahead and tore it down. Quote
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