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What Carbs to go with


BansheeDan

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ok....i got a 01 shee and just pulled her down for the first time.......got a hulluva deal on ebay for the top end kit so were goin .040 over......also milling the head .030 and what my builder calles match porting the cyllinders....it has a +4 timing key toomey t5's k&n on a pro-flow set up

runs on 110 race gas and klotz super techniplate....

 

 

just wondering what size keihn's i would want to go with also planning to get v-force's

any input would help.....thanx

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ha, i may get rembed for this but who care. i personally would go with the single carb. so much easier to deal with. and now, let the ass chewing begin.............. :whistling:

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Couple of things....

What temps and elevation do you ride at? I'd almost bet you're wasting your money on 110 race gas when all you might need is premium pump gas...

Depends on your compression....but, I think you can save money...to be honest.

 

Has it been bored before? If not...you're wasting two good bores, doesn't matter how good that .040 deal is, you're missing on .020 and .030....longer lives ya know.

 

Lastly, what TYPE of riding do you do? If you trail ride and occasionally dune and drag, I agree, a single 35PWK will do you nicely and ease maintenance, tuning....

 

But, if you're more duning and drag racing, you'll want a pair of 33s or 35's....

You say case match the porting...but, is he porting the cylinders as well? If not, case match is kinda a waste too. You'll get 1-3HP by case matching, you can get 10, 20 or 30 out of a good port job.

 

Just trying to cover all the bases....

:beer:

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match porting ?

 

That's where they machine or grind the upper half of the cases to match air/fuel flow into the transfer ports on the cylinders. From the factory they don't normally match.

 

Just another little builder trick...

 

I matched my own cases with a big bore base gasket as a stencil (68mm bore cub), and a dremel tool...doesn't take long at all, but, kinda pointless if the cylinders themselves aren't matched.

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what he calls match porting is lightly porting the cyllinders....like he knife edges the intakes...where its like a flat block behind the carbs.....i live in michigan and the riding i do is mostly pleasure riding.....but i do also run 1/4 mile flat track......im not sue of the elevation here.....

 

i got the .040 piston kit for a lil over 100.00 so thats why i bought it....couldnt touch one local for less then 195.00

 

and with the +4 timing i was told i have to run race gas to prevent detonation.......

 

thanx for the input guys

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Ok...got it.

That's basically a cleanup port...or real real mild port job.

 

Check your compression...you're in MI with me...I'd bet you don't have to run race gas with that setup.

Compression has more to do with the need for race gas than a slight timing advance such as that.

 

A complete kit from Magic Racing (In MI too) is only 160...and that includes gaskets, wrist pins, bearings, etc...everything.

 

Gotta do what ya gotta do, got it.

 

I'd bet you could save money on race/pump gas as long as your compression is much over 145 to 150 lbs, IF your bike is jetted correctly!

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Ok...got it.

That's basically a cleanup port...or real real mild port job.

 

Check your compression...you're in MI with me...I'd bet you don't have to run race gas with that setup.

Compression has more to do with the need for race gas than a slight timing advance such as that.

 

A complete kit from Magic Racing (In MI too) is only 160...and that includes gaskets, wrist pins, bearings, etc...everything.

 

Gotta do what ya gotta do, got it.

 

I'd bet you could save money on race/pump gas as long as your compression is much over 145 to 150 lbs, IF your bike is jetted correctly!

thats what i was thinking, my banshee is set at +4 and i still ran it on 91. then i got 18cc domes and started running AV Gas, its 100 oct and like $3.98 here in MO. also, get rid of the boost bottle b/c its just a waste of space and u wont beable to use it if u got with the single (its funny b/c last time i said something about the single carb i got ran up one side and down the other)

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stick with your stock carbs

i agree. stock carbs will be more than enough for a mildly ported motor. in fact ive heard stock carbs outflow a stock motor, so it should be about right on a mildly ported one. i see no need to switch carbs now. save your money and wait until youre ready to build a big motor.

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