Any experience welders?

[BrianEb]

If you had to use a Clarke stick welder to make a repair, what setting would you use with 3/32nd rod.

[FireHead]

If you had to use a Clarke stick welder to make a repair, what setting would you use with 3/32nd rod.

 

What are we repairing? :baseball_bat:

[BigRed350x]

I hope its not his frame, because he will have a lot of fun with a stick. haha Tig all the way baby!

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I hope its not his frame, because he will have a lot of fun with a stick. haha Tig all the way baby!

 

[FireHead]

I hope its not his frame, because he will have a lot of fun with a stick. haha Tig all the way baby!

 

That's what I was going to say. On different note, i have never heard of a Clarke welder, don't they make fork lifts? :baseball_bat:

[djackbanshee]

at least weld it with a mig !

stick weld

Edited September 14, 2006 by djackbanshee

[Animalman294]

I thought it was a candy bar............... :yelrotflmao:

[BrianEb]

So everybody here says, use a tig thanks I appreciate it.

 

The reason why I said stick welder is because thats what I can borrow right off get.

 

The part that needs welding is the gusset that the main frame and the sub frame come together.

The gusset also hase a hole drilled through it, that a bolt goes through for your middle set of

Toomey Pipe Hangers. Well it seem to have snap off.

I was panicing for a minute but some permatex epoxy should fix.

 

yes clarke is a welder and a candy bar and a fork lift bitches.

[BigRed350x]

Yeah, def. don't try and stick weld those flimsy little gussets the factory puts in there. You will just melt right through it.

 

On a side note... tig is the best way to weld on a frame. cleanest and best looking welds, also strongest. But you have to have some experience with a tig. Its not a welder you can just sit down and learn with, you have to have some kinda training or a lot of experience with them to do good work.

 

Wire-feed is the way I would go if I didn't have access to a tig. MIG will def. be easier than a stick welder on your frame. Start with your voltage low and work your way up until you find where you need to be. You don't want to be burning holes through your frame all the time, then you will have to worry about fixing those. What a mess that would be! Remember, if your voltage is low the welds will just pile up without penetration. You can always grind off and clean it up if it piles up, but it will be more difficult to try and fill in a hole you burned through the frame. And you will be making a weak point. I usually have my voltage regulator on my miller set at 20.3volts if I am doing wirefeed work on the banshee frame. Feed Rate is just a hair under 4 on the miller unit I use.

 

Take some pictures of your welds and we cna give you advise on what to change to do better if needed.

Edited September 15, 2006 by BigRed350x

[wesw]

depends on what rod you plan to use.

 

6011/6010 would be too much pentration.

 

6013 could work just drag it quick.

 

7018 possibly.

 

 

i would say a mig would be a lot easier. its going to be thin metal anyways.

[BigRed350x]

depends on what rod you plan to use.

 

6011/6010 would be too much pentration.

 

6013 could work just drag it quick.

 

7018 possibly.

i would say a mig would be a lot easier. its going to be thin metal anyways.

 

Is the welder you are going to use an AC, DC+ or DC-