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Keihin 30mm Jetting Question


Flyin_Shee

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I finally got my Banshee back. It was stolen over a year ago along with my 400ex by some meth heads and it was found rotting away in a woods nearby the meth lab. I had to buy an engine off of eBay because they trashed my freshly rebuilt engine (over $1000 invested) so I finally got that in and running. It runs like crap on low end until you get into the powerband and it just takes off like it's supposed to, but I feel it could be a little bit stronger. The engine came with stock carbs and they are jetted for a T-5/6 exhaust and I'm running the FMF Fatty series, so I'm guessing it's off anyway. I decided that I'm just not even going to mess with the stock carbs as I hate the TORS and I have a set of 30mm Keihin carbs for it.

 

My problem is before the Banshee was stolen I bought the 30mm Keihin carbs but had no clue what jetting to run in it as the sizes are different from Mikuni. I tried getting help from this site before but I don't believe I got it. Now I'm back as I'm bringing it along on a riding trip this upcoming weekend and I need it in tip-top running shape.

 

The only mods done now (old engine was ported) are pretty much the FMF Fatty pipes and PowerCore II silencers and the 30mm Keihin carbs. I'm at about 1000ft above sea level and the temperature is anywhere from 50-80 degrees (night to day). Could anyone give me a good starting point on main jets, pilot jet, and needle clip positioning? Thanks,

 

- Neal

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Whats up bud, i run 30mm mikunis on my shee and i just got her perfected on low end after bout 2 years. Running the smallest pilots i could find around here(not exactly sure but there real dam small) needle on the leanest clip, and 220 mains, this is with sst pipes, porting, v force 2s, k&n with no lid. It still runs a bit choppy in 1st but not as bad as it once did

 

O yeah check the packing on your silencers, this made a bigger diffrence than changing jets on my low end, i no that choppy until you get in the powerband and it rips type feeling better than anyone check your silencers, does it rev up nice at idle or load up?

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I'll have to run out and check what I got in there for clip position and main jet but back when I had the other engine in with porting and clamp-on filters it ran awesome from mid-top end, it's just that I couldn't get it to idle or run on low end. I'm going to be running the airbox now and the porting is stock so hopefully I'll be able to get it running good. I don't understand why you're running the lowest pilot size available and the leanest clip position. My carbs came off eBay with jetting supposedly for a Banshee and the pilot was a 52 I believe and I believe the mains were somewhere around the 150-160 range. Like I said before, with the porting and clamp-on filters along with the full exhaust it ran great mid-top, just couldn't get it to idle or run in the low range worth crap.

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Weird, that just sounds way too lean for a pilot. What's your needle set at?

 

I'm just getting close to getting mine all together (had to make custom carb boots so it'd fit onto the airbox). I've got the clip in the middle (3rd position), idle set so it's just starting to raise the slide, both slides pull up at the same time so it's synched, air screw set at 2 1/2 turns out (recommendation on that?) 52 pilot (guess I'll see how it starts, I only have 50 and 52 which is what it came with) and I have 175 mains in right now.

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I don't think you can make a comparison between the jet sizes on the MIKUNI and KEIHN 30mms. I used to have some 30mm "PWKs" from carb parts warehouse. I've been told that 30mm Keihns don't exist also, so I guess they were bored out 28mm. I wish I could remember how mine were jetted. I sold them to a fellow member.

 

Carb Parts warehouse will give you general jetting recommendations for their carbs.

Edited by J-Madd
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They must be bored out by Keihin or someone that has the capabilities of stamping it onto the carb because on both the carbs is stamped 30mm. I have notice that they are extremely rare though.

 

Anyway, I finally got everything together and it started on the first kick! Gave it no gas, no choke, nothing. Needed to turn the idle up a little bit and I need to go down on my mains. Other than that, she runs absolutely awesome. Never had this much throttle response on my Banshee, I could lift the front end up no problem which is something I've never been able to do on my 'Shee without jamming the throttle and standing on the grab bar. It bogs out once it hits the mains so when I get back from my riding trip (decided not to bring the 'Shee along, don't have it registered anyway) I'm going to drop down to 165's and see how it runs then.

 

Right now it's 52 pilots, 3rd clip on the needle, and 175 mains. Like I said, runs absolutely awesome until you get from half-WOT.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I took it out for another spin today (had to move it out of the garage to put the YFZ in so I can work on that). The temperature has dropped considerably, it's around 45-55 degrees out compared to 75-85 degrees. This time I had to use the choke to start it and once it was warmed up it still had a little trouble idling despite turning the idle screws up (I think I need to try turning them a little more, didn't turn them too much but at least now it will actually idle without dieing). Taking it up and down the strip in my yard I noticed that it ran better on the mains but it still stumbled a bit so I'm sure my jetting was way too rich before but I still need to drop down a size or two.

 

One thing that's bothering me now is that at the very start of the throttle position it seems to hesitate/stumble but once I blip the throttle/give it more it really screams until I get to the mains where it stumbles again, but not as bad as before.

 

So this leads me to believe that the pilot/Air screw needs to be adjusted and the mains need to drop a few sizes also. Could anyone help me on what you think I should do with the pilot/air screw? It seemed to run perfect before on low end when the temps were hot but now that the temps are colder it needs the choke to start but it feels like it's rich on low-end.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone? I just got some 55 pilots so I'll probably try that this weekend and lowering the mains. What should my air screw be at? I'm thinking the needle should be fine as that's the throttle range where it runs the best.

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your mains are way too big i think thats why it would bog , make sure your needle is at cetenr clip and i would try a smaller main like 160. pilots should be around 50 .

 

Yea I figured my mains are way too big. The thing is with the pilots at 52 it ran perfect from idle to about 1/4-1/2 throttle when it was around 75-85 degrees and when the temperature dropped to around 55 it would only run good at 1/4 throttle. That leads me to think I need to go bigger on the pilot now that the temperatures are staying low. The clip is in the center if I can remember correctly, I'm going to throw those 55 pilots in and try 165 mains and see how it runs and go from there. Any suggestions on what the air screws should be at? That's where I really don't know what I should be at, I'm coming from working on 4-strokes and I know the air screw is different from the fuel screw so I don't know how many turns out I should be at.

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Yea I figured my mains are way too big. The thing is with the pilots at 52 it ran perfect from idle to about 1/4-1/2 throttle when it was around 75-85 degrees and when the temperature dropped to around 55 it would only run good at 1/4 throttle. That leads me to think I need to go bigger on the pilot now that the temperatures are staying low. The clip is in the center if I can remember correctly, I'm going to throw those 55 pilots in and try 165 mains and see how it runs and go from there. Any suggestions on what the air screws should be at? That's where I really don't know what I should be at, I'm coming from working on 4-strokes and I know the air screw is different from the fuel screw so I don't know how many turns out I should be at.

 

I run these carbs too,on a ported banshee.The carbs are totally custom from the bodies to fuel bowls.They are based on a 28mm pwk thats oval bored.The bowls have a side overflow to prevent having to run reed spacers.

I noticed these carbs are very rich in the midrange.I'm running a 55 pilot 150 main and needle in the second clip from top.During the summer months I run the leanest clip on the needle.Airscrews at 1.75-1.25.

 

I've ran mikunis and pwks,let me tell ya,These are the best 28-30mm carbs for the banshee.Especially for the price.Carb parts warehouse is a few minutes from where i live,The guy is well known and respected in these parts.He does the tuning for Bill ballance,Tracy Cecco and other factory riders.

Edited by BlazinOne
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I run these carbs too,on a ported banshee.The carbs are totally custom from the bodies to fuel bowls.They are based on a 28mm pwk thats oval bored.The bowls have a side overflow to prevent having to run reed spacers.

I noticed these carbs are very rich in the midrange.I'm running a 55 pilot 150 main and needle in the second clip from top.During the summer months I run the leanest clip on the needle.Airscrews at 1.75-1.25.

 

I've ran mikunis and pwks,let me tell ya,These are the best 28-30mm carbs for the banshee.Especially for the price.Carb parts warehouse is a few minutes from where i live,The guy is well known and respected in these parts.He does the tuning for Bill ballance,Tracy Cecco and other factory riders.

 

Right now I'm running the 55 pilot 165 main and the needle clip is set at the 3rd notch down I believe. I've got the air screw at 1.5 turns out and it seems to be running excellent except for on top end where I'm sure I need to drop down some more on the mains. I just dropped down from 175's and it runs so much better, but it's still not good enough. The temps here are ranging from 40 to 60 degrees so I'm thinking the 160 mains should be just fine for the colder temps. I'd rather be running a little rich than lean. The only problem is my YFZ450 is using my other 160 main jet right now, haha, guess I'll have to see if it can handle running on the stock main.

 

I'm loving these carbs though, so much easier to work on than the stock carbs and they were way cheaper than I'd ever expect for aftermarket carbs - especially two of them!

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