ToomeySheeLE Posted July 24, 2006 Report Posted July 24, 2006 Hey everyone, just wondering if someone could shed some light on my problem. I just installed a new Tusk clutch and after about six ride it seems to have a serious problem.. When i put the banshee in gear and pull the lever in (pulls in feels like its engaging) and try to push the bike either forward or reverse it still catches the gear as if the clutch is totally unoperative. So I drained it and took the clutch cover off and dissassembled the clutch and looked it over... the plates and fibers seem to be fine.. as they should being nearly brand new. so i put those back in correctly and started playing with the adjustment screw in the center of the pressure plate.. i can get the bike so it moves freely in all the gears when i loosen it off.. and when i tighten it up or anywhere in between it starts acting like the original problem and catching all gears whether the clutch lever is pulled in or not.. my rod and ball welded together 2 months ago and all new parts where installed there.. so that shouldn't be the problem.. Seems wierd to me and i couldn't find anyone with the same problem when i did a search on here.. It was hard to explain so hopefully someone knows what I'm talking about.. Thanks for any input or suggestions. Brad Quote
Dinner Posted July 25, 2006 Report Posted July 25, 2006 (edited) First make sure that one of the arrows on the outside of the pressure plate is lined up with the arrow on the inside(just behind the pressure plate when it is off). And make sure that your springs are to spec.....And for the adjustor in the middle, have someone if you can push the clutch lever(where the end of the cable goes into on the engine), push that in until it just starts to get hard to push. And when you are adjusting that bold in the middle of the clutch, losen it off and then go in slowly, once you feel it touch the little bearing behind that bolt, then stop and tighten up the nut while still holding the bold in that place. And before you put everything back together, put it in gear and see if the clutch holds when in gear, and see if it "lets go" of the gears when you pull in the lever. And if that works, put her all back together and then do little fine tuning with the clutch cable adjustor on the handle bars, and with the nuts on the engine. My clutch was acting up today when i put the quad all back together because i put new plates in as well(stock) When i started it up and when to go ride, i would let out the clutch but it would only engage enough to nudge the quad then it would start slipping. So i lined up the arrows(forgot to the first time) and did that adjustor trick(friend tought me that) and she rips now. Hopefully this helps ya :beer: Dinner Edited July 25, 2006 by Dinner Quote
ToomeySheeLE Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Posted July 25, 2006 Well I fiddled with it for the better part of this morning and I can't get it to work right... when you pull the hand lever are you suppose to see the fiber and friction plates move or just the pressure plate.. only the pressure plate moves.. but i think thats the way its suppose to be.. I can either adjust it so the cluch doesn't work at all or loosen it off so the bike pushes whether its in gear or not... can't seem to get it in between.. Quote
RATBIKE0130 Posted July 25, 2006 Report Posted July 25, 2006 First make sure that one of the arrows on the outside of the pressure plate is lined up with the arrow on the inside(just behind the pressure plate when it is off). Dinner Brad if you did line this stuff up and have the spacers in the proper locations there is something I am suspecting is the problem. I'll hold off posting here until a few more people post and try their best at convincing you that so and so part is the problem. Quote
ToomeySheeLE Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Posted July 25, 2006 The alignment marks are all lined up.. Its; not the first clutch i've put together, assembly isn't the problem.. the thing that gets me is that i rode it for about six good rides and then it goes tits up... What was your other suggestion? Quote
RATBIKE0130 Posted July 26, 2006 Report Posted July 26, 2006 Well first tell me how did you weld the ball onto the clutch pushrod. If you were holding in the clutch and it happened then no big deal. If you happened to drain the oil and noticed it was low and that caused the ball to weld to the rod you might be in for a surprise. What does this have to do with anything.... well if you just simply held in the clutch and it welded the ball did you take the motor out of the frame to fix it? If you did were you certain you hooked up the vent hoses properly? On the back of the motor below the rear motor mount there is a plastic vent fitting. If you don't reinstall that hose your tranny oil will drain out the back of the case. So was your oil low at any point since you replaced the clutch? If it was you could have started to or did weld some of the gears on the gear shafts. Easy test to see if this happened to you: shift the bike into neutral, pull the clutch off and remove the clutch basket, lift the rear of the quad off the ground, hold the input shaft (the one the clutch basket spins) with one hand while turning the rear wheels with your other hand. You should have no trouble at all keeping the input shaft from spinning (must be in neutral!!!!). If the bike is in neutral and there is no way to keep that shaft from spinning start shopping ebay for a good used transmission. Oh and in case your wondering how I know this... I've worked on three bikes that have had this happen to. I'm not repeating some stupid crap I read off the internet somewhere. I hope this helps and isn't the cause of your problems! Quote
RATBIKE0130 Posted July 26, 2006 Report Posted July 26, 2006 C-L-Y-M-E-R M-A-N-U-A-L :: Those are good for newbies.... just another door stop to me Quote
2003LimitedBanshee Posted July 26, 2006 Report Posted July 26, 2006 Those are good for newbies.... just another door stop to me Brad, sorry I don't have anything to add at this point, but I couldn't let a comment like this go. I am definitely not a newbie and I reference my Clymer fairly regularly. Torque specs, tolerances etc. but I guess if "about that tight" is good enough for you, keep it in the door stop. Quote
Rebel3190 Posted July 26, 2006 Report Posted July 26, 2006 (edited) AHHH im having the EXACT same problem reading all this i got pissed at went to ebay just now and bought a clymers manual. Edited July 26, 2006 by Rebel3190 Quote
RATBIKE0130 Posted July 26, 2006 Report Posted July 26, 2006 If you need a manual buy a factory manual. They are more through anyway. Quote
ToomeySheeLE Posted July 27, 2006 Author Report Posted July 27, 2006 Thanks. I;m going to try that transmission check trick. I have a clymers and there is nothing in it that addresses my problem. I'm hoping the tranny is ok, but i'll be stumped again if it is.. the transmission oil was at the right level and hasn't been leaking.. The reason i mentioned the clutch and ball failure is because i didn't reinstall those parts.. the case had to be split to take out those mangled parts and i left that to a mechanic that i thought knew what he was doing.. any chance something in there isnt catching just right to create this problem.. Thanks alot so far. Brad I'm glad my posting of this problem helped sell a clymer manual..hah Quote
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