00ultraz28 Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 just got my new adjustable timing plate, set it to +4 and now she wont run. Anyone got any starting point or advice. I checked the stator to make sure it was still good and it seems to be. The bike has always had a problem starting but I just figured it needed new pilots. I have no idea wat tha deal is now Quote
bansheeseat$$ Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 Set your pick-up gap to 20 thousandths and it should fire right up. :beer: Quote
2003LimitedBanshee Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 Set your pick-up gap to 20 thousandths and it should fire right up. :beer: Dang! You beat me to it... My guess where your problem lies too. Quote
00ultraz28 Posted June 27, 2006 Author Report Posted June 27, 2006 I've been trying this... but there's not much play and I dont have any gauges other than my round spark plug gapper and its hard to get inthere.... It doesnt seem like you can really move it much , or at least not enough to tell a difference. I'll play with it tomorrow. Quote
00ultraz28 Posted June 27, 2006 Author Report Posted June 27, 2006 Now I need some real help help. I think its got nothing to do with the timing plate. I also jetted it when i did the other work and now as soon as I turn the gas on to cranker it flows straight to the ground. Anybody got an idea of what i've screwedup . I have very limited knowledge of carbs . Quote
fastcar01 Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 Now I need some real help help. I think its got nothing to do with the timing plate. I also jetted it when i did the other work and now as soon as I turn the gas on to cranker it flows straight to the ground. Anybody got an idea of what i've screwedup . I have very limited knowledge of carbs . Your float is not closing. You most likely have a piece of dirt in the needle/seat, or it is just worn out. Either way that is your problem, for some reason you needle is not closing. Quote
00ultraz28 Posted June 27, 2006 Author Report Posted June 27, 2006 Your float is not closing. You most likely have a piece of dirt in the needle/seat, or it is just worn out. Either way that is your problem, for some reason you needle is not closing. Like I said i'm no carb genius and i'm not exactly sure what you mean, if you could elaborate. Are you talking about dirt being in the top where the slide goes in or where the needle goes through the bottom Quote
watkins Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 (edited) If gas is pouring out the carbs try tapping the float bowl (bottom part of the carb) with the end of a screw driver.. my stock carbs always had the floats stick after a cleaning..... Also.... you need to do what the others said and check the pickup gap.... since you dont have the tool to do it, take a book of matches.. .flip open the lid... and shove the lid in between the pickup coil and the bump on the flywheel.... it should fit in there snug... if its too tight or too lose then adjust it. Only thing I can think of. Edited June 27, 2006 by watkins Quote
r/atvshee Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 sound like the same problem that has happened to me a while back.. we got a timing plate and started it, then we heard some kind of clicking sound when we kicked it. we took off the flywheel and then we found out that the key wasnt were it was supposed to be and that the little key cut up the stator and it cost alot to fix........But try checking ur key it might have been knocked out of place. Quote
00ultraz28 Posted June 27, 2006 Author Report Posted June 27, 2006 I cleaned the carbs real good and the fuel problem quit but still no fire. I think I have the gap set pretty close. If the key you are talking about is the key way cut in the flywheel and the key that is on the taper, then everything there is ok. I did notice that there is a place on one of the coils of the stator that has a chip in the coating and some of the wires have been torn. Would a small spot that like that ruin the stator? Also I started looking for any lose wires. I found a plug not plugged in up close to the coil, a green and white wire and a black wire. The bike had a parking brake remove when i bought it and I'm guessing that this what it is from. Quote
Hilarious Posted June 27, 2006 Report Posted June 27, 2006 I cleaned the carbs real good and the fuel problem quit but still no fire. I think I have the gap set pretty close. If the key you are talking about is the key way cut in the flywheel and the key that is on the taper, then everything there is ok. I did notice that there is a place on one of the coils of the stator that has a chip in the coating and some of the wires have been torn. Would a small spot that like that ruin the stator? Also I started looking for any lose wires. I found a plug not plugged in up close to the coil, a green and white wire and a black wire. The bike had a parking brake remove when i bought it and I'm guessing that this what it is from. Have you pulled your spark plugs to know whether or not you are getting spark? If you have fuel, which sounds like you do, and compression, spark is the only thing left to make it not run. Quote
00ultraz28 Posted June 27, 2006 Author Report Posted June 27, 2006 I'm pretty sure its not getting spark... it acts about like you're kicking it over with the key switched off Quote
00ultraz28 Posted June 28, 2006 Author Report Posted June 28, 2006 just checked it and no spark. Quote
00ultraz28 Posted June 28, 2006 Author Report Posted June 28, 2006 Is the cdi box supposed to be unplugged . Quote
2003LimitedBanshee Posted June 28, 2006 Report Posted June 28, 2006 Is the cdi box supposed to be unplugged . The CDI shouldn't be unplugged, but are you sure you aren't looking at the TORS module? It's to the "driver's" side of the ignition coil (triangular in shape). It sounds like they may have removed part of the TORS system but something is missing. Have you run this bike, or did you just get it and swap the plate before firing it? Quote
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