00ultraz28

sorry its been a while... i think i have the bike sold, but i still have the 1000 motor

central mississippi...

whats up guys i've got an 05 suzuki 1000 motor and an 04 yfz 450 for sale.... the motor has the radiator, computer,harness, throttle bodies, air box, and injectors... pretty much everything other than a fuel pump... the yfz has a locked up motor, probably wouldn't take much to fix, but would make a good frame for the 1000 motor if someone had the time to do it... i'll sell them seperate, but would like to get rid of them together.... i'll either take 1500 a piece or 2500 for them together

I understand and wasn't trying to bash myself, just adding in some info that might be useful....

I also am a painter and the steps here are correct, other than wet sanding the base... if it is applied correctly there is no need to sand. and also before you spray base over the surfacer, you need to spray a sealer to get an even color over the frame. I am a big fan of HOK... I've used ppg and found that it has a tendancy of lifting with the base... as far as what surfacer and clear to use, stick within the same manufacturer... if you use ppg , use strictly ppg, if you use dupont(which I also really like) stick with dupont clears and primers. This cuts down on some of the things that can go wrong.

there is a HUGE power gain with t5s and the right jetting, and the sound is great

you need to rejet the bike, with less air going through the motor you need less fuel... the idle screws are the knobs on top of the carbs. The screws on the side are your air/fuel mixture. You will need to change your main and pilot to smaller ones. Also I know some jet kits come with different needles for toomey exhaust. I'm no expert but i'm pretty positive this should help you out

I'll be getting rid of the tors soon. I got everything unplugged just need to get all the useless wires out and get the removal kit.

the jets are your problem if they are still factory. Anytime you get more air in or out of the motor it needs more fuel.

I tried cranking it with the radiator cap off, no fluid came out of the cap. Afterwards I went for a short 10 minute ride. It dripped a few drops out but not a whole lot that I can tell and the overflow tank is full. Maybe its just overfilled. :shrug:

weird thing is it just started doing it out of nowhere. Its been almost a year now since its been rebilt. I didn't ride it much more than just breaking it in after the rebuilt and didt ride it any over the winter. I've been riding it a good bit this summer and it hasn't ever done this before. I advance the timing and put a sprocket on it and all of the sudden its spittin out coolant

Its a 99 model but i rebuilt the motor and put all new gaskets on it not too long ago. I'll try starting it with the radiator cap off tomorrow. Also its a stock head

I cant keep coolant in the radiator. The coolant builds up in the catch tank in the bank and then runs out the dump tube right on top of the coil. When I open the radiator cap there is none in the radiator. Whats stopped up or is the radiator shot

Stock carbs, still have the tors. The right side carb slide moves before the left. Do the big screws on top control the slides. If so which way do I need to turn them.

yep it was the stator. got one locally from a friend and she fired right up.

Is the cdi box supposed to be unplugged .

just checked it and no spark.

I'm pretty sure its not getting spark... it acts about like you're kicking it over with the key switched off

I cleaned the carbs real good and the fuel problem quit but still no fire. I think I have the gap set pretty close. If the key you are talking about is the key way cut in the flywheel and the key that is on the taper, then everything there is ok. I did notice that there is a place on one of the coils of the stator that has a chip in the coating and some of the wires have been torn. Would a small spot that like that ruin the stator? Also I started looking for any lose wires. I found a plug not plugged in up close to the coil, a green and white wire and a black wire. The bike had a parking brake remove when i bought it and I'm guessing that this what it is from.

Like I said i'm no carb genius and i'm not exactly sure what you mean, if you could elaborate. Are you talking about dirt being in the top where the slide goes in or where the needle goes through the bottom

Now I need some real help help. I think its got nothing to do with the timing plate. I also jetted it when i did the other work and now as soon as I turn the gas on to cranker it flows straight to the ground. Anybody got an idea of what i've screwedup . I have very limited knowledge of carbs .

I've been trying this... but there's not much play and I dont have any gauges other than my round spark plug gapper and its hard to get inthere.... It doesnt seem like you can really move it much , or at least not enough to tell a difference. I'll play with it tomorrow.

just got my new adjustable timing plate, set it to +4 and now she wont run. Anyone got any starting point or advice. I checked the stator to make sure it was still good and it seems to be. The bike has always had a problem starting but I just figured it needed new pilots. I have no idea wat tha deal is now

I have almost the exact same setup as you... I'm fixing to start my jetting and am gonna start with a 300 main with a 30 pilot.. we'll see how it runs after that and I'll make adjustments as needed. I run caster 927 oil with 93

Yeah I think the guy that was telling me I could start in second was full of himself.... I'm just gonna have to strap the front down and play with it a few times before I go to the track friday. Right now i'm not really too concerned with how it does as far as being geared to run a full quarter. I'll worry about that when i get another one to ride and turn this one into a full drag bike