r/atvshee Posted June 7, 2006 Report Posted June 7, 2006 what is done for a 370longrod..(stroker,bore,ect..)and would the pistons and rings be replaced? thanks Quote
Shee-Male Posted June 7, 2006 Report Posted June 7, 2006 Yes you will have to change pistons and rings, you also requirea a stroker crank wich comes with the rods (+%mm longer). Lots of kits are avilabe, check out ebay. Quote
r/atvshee Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Posted June 7, 2006 (edited) how much stroke would the crank be?like +4? Edited June 7, 2006 by r/atvshee Quote
lowriderb Posted June 7, 2006 Report Posted June 7, 2006 its either a 4mm with a stock bore (.040 over will be a 379cc) or a bigger bore on the stock sleeve.. Quote
rebelbanshee2 Posted June 7, 2006 Report Posted June 7, 2006 Look here instead. check that link out. The 370 long rod was the old school way of putting a long rod crank in. In order to account for the longer rod blaster pistons were used since their wrist pin is 5mm higher. Now wiseco makes the 795 series piston so one can use a longer rod with out going .08 over. It has nothing to do with stroker cranks. Quote
r/atvshee Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Posted June 7, 2006 so your saying that a 370 longrod has nothing to do with a stroker crank .... Quote
J.J. Posted June 8, 2006 Report Posted June 8, 2006 so your saying that a 370 longrod has nothing to do with a stroker crank .... Yep Quote
r/atvshee Posted June 8, 2006 Author Report Posted June 8, 2006 so what would be a better buy. The 370 longrod or a 4mm stroker? Quote
lowriderb Posted June 8, 2006 Report Posted June 8, 2006 4mm stroker.. much more torque made with the stroker, and you dont have to bore out your cylinders to .080 over.. and waste all the good bored you have between where ever your at now and that... Quote
ellison445 Posted June 8, 2006 Report Posted June 8, 2006 I concur 4mm stroker.. much more torque made with the stroker, and you dont have to bore out your cylinders to .080 over.. and waste all the good bored you have between where ever your at now and that... Quote
dajogejr Posted June 8, 2006 Report Posted June 8, 2006 Actually...there are a few flavors. A stroker crank, a long rod crank AND a stroked longrod crank. The latter is the best. The crank journals themselves are 4mm offset. However, when you do that, it places more load on the stock length rod. A longer rod is then used to offset this added stress (the rod doesn't have to move as much, back and forth) I believe my 4 mil is a 4 mil crank, and 5mm longer rods. Keep in mind...with a longer stroke...the porting on the cylinders will have to be changed to compensate. Shouldn't say have to...it is Wise to have it changed so you'll have the correct port timings.... Quote
r/atvshee Posted June 8, 2006 Author Report Posted June 8, 2006 a tough desicion to make and waste all the good bored you have between where ever your at now and that... my motor has nothing done to it except a milled head and its ported....... Quote
lowriderb Posted June 8, 2006 Report Posted June 8, 2006 stock bore 4mm stroker would put you at a 373.171cc motor.. imo i wouldnt want to go from stock bore to .080 over for no other reason than to say that cc size is that motor... going with just the stroker crank (long rod preferred, also with 795 series wiseco's) with the stock bore will leave you with alot more cylinder life left.. the next biggest thing to consider is to run with or without the spacer plate with that set up.. i ran mine without and had the domes cut for the stroke (cool head) when i had stock cylinders.. Quote
r/atvshee Posted June 8, 2006 Author Report Posted June 8, 2006 yea i dont want to bore out the cylinders because to me it seems like a waste. I will probably just go with the 4mm with a longrod Quote
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