Bleeding Front Brakes

[Breton]

Can anyone tell me how to bleed the front brakes on a shee? Ive tried the whole pump it, then crack the bleeder then close it, but there is no fluid being pushed out of my lever box..does this mean i need a new brake box? Or am i doing something wrong?

THanks

[EastCoast Banshee]

I think you refering to the master cylinder not the break box. If its not pushing any fluid your gonna need a new one unless they have new seal kits which i dont know if they do or not.

[RIPPEN]

I have always had good luck gravity bleeding the breaks. I usually crack both bleeders open and top off the "lever box". Hang out for a few and let gravity draw in the fluid and push out the air. If that isn't working I VERY SLIGHTLY move the lever back and for to help get a little fluid going. If it still does not go your bleeders may be clogged. Otherwise when I begin to get good fluid out I let it run for a sec but then ill shut the one thats letting out more to promote more pressure to push out the other. Once thats done I top off the fluid, thrown on the cover and bleed them normally. Hope this helps

 

RIPPEN

[Hollister_Hitman]

I just put some hydralic disc brakes on an 02' blaster from an 03' and took off the drum brakes last week. We emptied the fluid so we could take the disc brakes of the 03. When we were bleeding the brakes we loosened the bleeder valve and just kept pumping the brakes...after about 2 min the fluid started to reach the bleeder valve so then we began to bleed the brakes. So you should lossen the valves and pump the brakes till the fluid starts to come out. Even though pumping the brakes causes more air to get in the lines it still gets the fluid to the valves quicker and then you can start the correct way of bleeding them..which is to open the valve, pull the brake lever, tighten the valve then release the brake lever and repeat until only fluid comes out with no air

[FasterThanU90]

if ur not getting fluid:

 

1. the master cyl. isnt level

2. ur bleeder hose isnt looped ABOVE the bleeder valve and submerged in brake fluid

3. leak in the lines

 

 

"..which is to open the valve, pull the brake lever, tighten the valve then release the brake lever and repeat until only fluid comes out with no air"

 

Little mixed up there Hitman

 

u pump the lever, pull it in.. hold it.. open the bleeder valve if ur doin it right the fluid should shoot out pretty quickly then close the bleeder valve, release lever and continue to pump, repeat till theres no air in lines

 

TIP:

a clear bleeder hose is much needed

 

if theres anymore problems feel free to ask

[Hollister_Hitman]

if ur not getting fluid:

 

1. the master cyl. isnt level

2. ur bleeder hose isnt looped ABOVE the bleeder valve and submerged in brake fluid

3. leak in the lines

 

 

"..which is to open the valve, pull the brake lever, tighten the valve then release the brake lever and repeat until only fluid comes out with no air"

 

Little mixed up there Hitman

 

u pump the lever, pull it in.. hold it.. open the bleeder valve if ur doin it right the fluid should shoot out pretty quickly then close the bleeder valve, release lever and continue to pump, repeat till theres no air in lines

 

TIP:

a clear bleeder hose is much needed

 

if theres anymore problems feel free to ask

518544[/snapback]

That is what I did and all the air came out...brakes work fine. Open,squeez,close,release,repeat.

[ssanddemon]

Brake bleeding on bikes can be a real pain in the a$$. This is due to the small size of the fittings and brake fluid reservoir- there isn't much fluid weight to push out air, and the tiny openings don't let gravity push much fluid. A little trick I heard about is to zip-tie a rubber glove around the top of the brake reservoir. Cut off the end of one of the fingers and blow it up like a balloon. Hold it shut while inflated and crack the bleeders. Guaranteed fluid flow, pressure bleeding like this just blows all the air out. I guess you would want to keep a good eye on the fluid level in the rezzie so as not to let it run dry; a pain when using this method. But it beats having to buy a spendy pressure bleeding setup when everything else fails.

[Hollister_Hitman]

I want to know what you end up doing

[[email protected]]

heres a trick i learnd it works for me...

 

- get a break fluid bottle and a small hose that will fit over ure fill/bleed nipple .

 

and make a loop in it like in the picture , i have mine taped together , it acts as a 1 way valve

 

( i do both breaks at the same time ) leave the break resivor cap off and fill it up to the top , Then once filled pump the break lever until the resivoris near empty , now fill it up again .ure systems now purged and air free, close both nipples and bleed the breaks ,how you should normally do .... takes me about a honest 5 minutes to do

 

 

Im not makin this bullshit up , i read it somewhere in the clymer but i dont know how close my wording is or instruction is , im just telling you how i do it .

 

 

Edited May 21, 2006 by [email protected]

[Breton]

I found out my master cylinder seal is leaking, but thank you to all that responded, i know what to do once i replace the seal.

Thanks again

[[email protected]]

hell yeah rock on