silverlakeshee01 Posted May 2, 2006 Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 (edited) My 01 shee has been overheating a little bit here and there but today i took it out and did a few doughnuts on wet pavement and when i parked it a pretty good size cloud of smoke poured out of the radiator and off of the pipes and it was dripping coolant out of the radiator onto the pipes. I checked the coolant in the raditator and its topped off and also in the resevour under the seat. It had performance reeds on it that just went bad a couple of days after i bought it. I bought all stock reeds yesturday and changed them out and their working fine now, when i had the the engine torn down i also did a compression test on both cylinders and they are fine so im almost positive its not the head gasket. any ideas on why its overheating so much?? thanks! Edited May 2, 2006 by silverlakeshee01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverlakeshee01 Posted May 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 I just went out and checked the quad again i am so confused i looked over everything and cant figure it out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshdog Posted May 2, 2006 Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 Tryed flushing the radiator and lines? Did you check the water pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KlotzBanshee Posted May 2, 2006 Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 Don't fill the coolant all the way to the top of the filler neck, just fill it to about an inch or so past the rad core. and try running some "Engine Ice" next time you do a flush. Banshee's tend to run hot at times, after you run it hard like that don't let it just sit and idle, either shut it down or go for a little ride afterwards to get some air going through the radiator. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animalman294 Posted May 2, 2006 Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 You should check your water pump. Sometimes the stock impeller has fins that break off and make the stock impeller even shittier than it already is. Change that to an aluminum impeller, because they are also more efficient. Just my .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bzy2p Posted May 2, 2006 Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 your runnin lean more than likely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverlakeshee01 Posted May 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 whats a good web site to buy an aftermarket water pump at? If i am running lean i have to adjust the screws that are on top of the carbs with a flat head correct? Which way do they have to turn? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bzy2p Posted May 2, 2006 Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 (edited) well u got airscrews u can turn in but more than likley youll have to change the main jet and drop the clip on the needle.. is it cutting out or popping? id make sure you buy a pro design water pump reliable as hell some other billet water pumps say they work but ive seen other brands not fit..too tight and wont turn ,, notgood Edited May 2, 2006 by 2bzy2p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverlakeshee01 Posted May 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 Im sorry but im not that mechanically inclined but im getting there, what do you mean by the main jet and drop the clip on the needle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80overShee Posted May 2, 2006 Report Share Posted May 2, 2006 OK....jetting advice time. Like stated before, it is most likely your jetting but could be an impeller problem. Lets check the jetting, it should be tuned anyway right? To CHECK your jetting, run flat out in 5-6th gear, throttle pegged. When you hit the run out for that gear, pull the clutch in and kill the engine. Dont let off the throttle until it dies or the clutch until it stops. Now pull the plugs (they are HOT) and swap in a spare set. Go back to your work area and check them. You need to cut the threads off to check the white ceramic area below the electrode. You are looking for a small (2mm) brown coffee colored band around the very bottom portion. If there isn't a band and the whole thing is colored white then your main jet is too lean (too small). If it is all brown or the band is more than 2mm then you are too rich (too big on main). More than likely you are too lean. The engine will also pop and back fire a little when it is running if it is too lean. Too rich and it will sputter. To CHANGE your jetting. Remove your carbs (remove airbox/filters/fuel line, unscrew carb caps) and place the carbs upside down on a clean shop rag after you dump all the excess gas out of them. Have a can of carb-cleaner or brake-cleaner handy. Unscrew the bowl (bottom of carb, 4 screws) from the carb body and pull it off carefully. If it is stuck, be careful not to ruin the gasket material, they are a pain to come by. Now that you have the bowl off, the 'main' jet is the hex-type brass piece sticking up beyond everything else with a funny looking piece of white plastic under it. Use a nut driver or socket (5mm or 6mm, cant remember) NOT a pair of channel-locks or pliers to remove the jet. Check the number stamped on the end of the jet and go change sizes (up or down respectively) by 2. They go by 10's in sizes so if you have a 250, if you are too lean, go to a 270. Reinstall everything and go for a ride. Here is the part that is a bummer.......REPEAT from beginning. That will take care of your 'main' jetting. When you get to the point that you have gone from too lean to too rich, do the process again but change the jet size by one size instead of 2. Needle - Now here is the part that is a little more 'by touch' than scientific. It is also the part that is the easiest though also. The needle controls most of your throttle range, from about 1/8-1/4 throttle to 7/8 throttle. It is pretty crucial to have it right yet it is what most people fail to adjust. The main jet only controls 3/4 to WOT. When you are riding, AFTER you have gotten your main jet spot on, if you in the mid-throttle range (not mid RPM, I am referring to throttle position) the bike feels like it is sluggish and doesnt pick up well, you may be too rich. You will want to bring the needle clip DOWN one position (more on how in a minute). If the bike pops and acts like it is going to (or does) back fire, you are too lean and need to go UP one position on the needle. What the needle does is it sits inside the main jet, when you pull the throttle, it pulls the needle out of the main and allows fuel to pass through the main jet. By moving the position of the needle in relation to throttle position, you control when and how much fuel comes through the main up to 7/8 throttle. After 7/8 throttle, the needle is completely out of the main so it has no effect on WOT, this is why you jet for the main at WOT. To change the needle position - Pull the carb caps off and look down inside the slides. You will see a phillips head screw (two?), remove the screw and pull the retainer that it held out. Now slide the cable out and the needle should fall out of the slide when tipped over. Note the position of the clip on the needle. It is what determines the height of the needle inside the carb. If you are too lean on the needle, you need to bring the clip UP one position (or 'lower the needle), if you are too rich then go DOWN on position (or 'raise the needle') The screw on the side of the carbs is your air screw, it only effects the very lowest of your throttle range. Should be about 1 1/2 turns out but depends on your mods. Hope this helps you out, jetting is the one thing EVERYONE with a 2-stroke should learn to master. When you are mechanically inclined or not, you should learn how to recognize your jetting issues, it will make your bike run much better....MUCH longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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