top end needs rebuilt

[MILO]

It appers that on the top of the head just off the squish band there is a hole burned in the head gasket surface?

 

Anyone see the same thing?

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what exactly is the squish band that i've been hearing about? there's no hole burned in anywhere that i noticed

 

hulio, i'm set on the noss head, 20cc domes. thanks for the option though.

 

here's another question though. i was going to get'r bored 20 over till i did some more searching on here about boring cylinders. i was under the impression that boring over would give you more hp, through more displacement etc. now i've read some posts about being better off not boring if it's not needed cuz the smaller cylinder area creates more compression, hence the purpose of domes. my cylinder is just barely marred, visible but can't even feel or catch it with anything, so honing might do the trick. so am i actually better off to have it honed, keeping stock bore, pushing the smaller/lighter piston, and sticking with the 20cc domes. it does make sense when you look at it that way, right??

 

by the way, i dunno what i'd do without all you guys info and support. thanks to everyone.

[blueshee03]

the squish band is the flatter band on the head that works more or less like a deflecter to direct the compressed air and gas mixture up into the dome of the head.in the last pic you posted there is what appears to be a bad spot right where the headgasket seals.

 

noss head is the way to go .very good quality and very nice guy to deal with.

 

as for boring ,don't bore unless its necessary.boring does not give enough power gain to justify loosing future bores.at your elevation you could go to 19 or even 18 cc domes if you want more bottom end.i have a set of 19cc domes if you want to try 19's.

Edited April 9, 2006 by blueshee03

[MILO]

is that what your talking about? that's just a piece of carbon build up (i'm assuming) or gasket material.

i mostly ride between 1000-2000', and according to the chart at that elevation i'd be near the edge of need race gas with 19's, wouldn't i? i want to stick to pump gas. i've been chatting with dlnoss and he agreed that 20's would be a safe bet.

 

i'm going to take the jugs to a local shop tomorrow and see what they tell me about getting them honed. blueshee03, have you ever dealt with keystone kawasaki/yamaha in newry for such things? bedford yamaha is about the same distance for me but i usually deal with keystone or barnharts.

[blueshee03]

yeh thats the spot i was talkin about

i've never dealt with keystone but i have dealt with bedford yamaha.never had them do any work but i've bought a few parts there.they are a little high on parts in my oppinion.as for goin to 19 cc domes i'm pretty sure you'de be ok and still run pump gas.we run 19's all the time when we were into trail ridingand even ran 18's.do you have your timing advanced?if not and i were you i would advance it 4 degrees and go with the 19's.you may have to rejet just a little.however if you don't feel at all safe changing then go with what noss tells you or you feel safe with.

[joker149999]

If ya wanna stay low with the money deal, i would just have the head milled down that way you don't have too spend money on a new head plus ya will get a higher compression. but if i were you i would replace the water pump shaft with a high flow one piece one and get rid of the stock one any way's that way you know that your pushing the coolant where it needs too go and no worry's of the water pump fins coming off the shaft like the stock one can

[MILO]

as for goin to 19  cc domes i'm pretty sure you'de be ok  and still run pump gas.we run 19's all the time when we were into trail ridingand even ran 18's.do you have your timing advanced?if not and i were you i would advance it 4 degrees and go with the 19's.you may have to rejet just a little.however if you don't feel at all safe changing then go with what noss tells you or you feel safe with.

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my timing isn't advanced at all. no offense bud, but i'm gonna stick with the 20's like noss said. doesn't the timing advance tie into porting to really be worthwhile? and won't either one change the dome size needed?

 

If ya wanna stay low with the money deal, i would just have the head milled down that way you don't have too spend money on a new head plus ya will get a higher compression. but if i were you i would replace the water pump shaft with a high flow one piece one and get rid of the stock one any way's that way you know that your pushing the coolant where it needs too go and no worry's of the water pump fins coming off the shaft like the stock one can

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hey bud, look at the pics of the dome in the stock head, i think it's trashed. even if it would be repairable it's a good oppurtunity and excuse to upgrade

i already have the pd impeller, installed last spring. thanks anwyay.

[suzuki0702]

not to hijack the thread but is it bad to run with the head like that? i meen with it all chunked up and shit?

[MILO]

not to hijack the thread but is it bad to run with the head like that? i meen with it all chunked up and shit?

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you know, i'm not really sure what effect it may have. but it's under tremendous pressure in there and i'd hate to have it fail somehow. personally, it would drive me nuts just knowing that that chunked up thing is on my engine. besides, now i'm getting a perty blue one from nossmachine. i'm anxious to see how it cools and how the 20cc domes change anything.

Edited April 10, 2006 by MILO

[als660r]

not to hijack the thread but is it bad to run with the head like that? i meen with it all chunked up and shit?

499739[/snapback]

 

 

the nicks and dents do not cool as quick

makeing hot spots that lead to pinging