Ring end gap

[oldman]

I just got my jugs back today and suspect that I have received a less than precise

bore job. My ring gap is .028 on one jug and .022 on the other. Clymer says .012 to .018 with .20 being the limit. The pistons are Wisco pro lites, which give the same spec. ( .004 per inch of bore ). Would you give this guy a second chance?

 

What is all the rage about these wisco pro lite's?

The rings have got to wear a hell of a lot faster than that of the stock pistons.

Edited December 2, 2005 by oldman

[duner]

I think for every .001, you increase your ring gap by .003.A long time auto machinist & drag engine builder who bores my jugs told me this.

That would mean either the jugs are about .001 big or you might have got a bad set of rings.

[oldman]

I am under the impression that for each inch of bore diameter, you need .004 inches of ring gap. This would translate into 2.5 inches x .004 = .01. You do not want the ends to touch so you add .001 for each inch of bore. This would put the min. ring gap at .0125. The max is .20 incches.

[dawarriorman]

Repair manual says the max is .018"

[cudabeen]

I just did my pro lites three or for days ago,they should be able to drop in to your jugs with something like .006-008 clearance,then file fit to where ever you want them.I opened mine up to 0.010, the minimum according to a 2.5 bore.I'd double check your bore size for sure,and maybe your part #'s on the rings.

[ssanddemon]

& did you check the same ring in each bore? It would be the easy way to see whether it is the bores or the rings that don't match each other. Something definitely wrong here.

Edit: the Pro Lite is forged, as opposed to the factory cast aluminum piston. A higher strength piece, but needing a slightly larger bore clearance due to the expansion characteristics of forged aluminum, as well as the greater importance of proper engine warmup to prevent piston slap and cylider wear.

Edited December 2, 2005 by ssanddemon