Animalman294 Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 Hey, I didn't want to hijack the other string, so I started my own. I am really interested in getting the 4 mm cub, but I would like to know what I am getting into first. What other mods are going to have to be done for me to run this (ie. extra cost). From what I gather I think that I can run all my stock parts at first until I get more money. Is that true? I am probably going to have to buy a +4 swing arm, new carb, have the crank welded, larger pistons, etc, etc, etc. Can I still run pump gas with this setup, or do you have to run race fuel (I usually run 50/50 anyway)? I am looking for the bottom line guys. I want a set of cubs, I'm just trying to do it right the first time and not knowing what to expect isn't cool. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badassbanshee479 Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 (edited) if you are gonna go with a 4mill cub, you will need a new crank, (hot rods cranks come welded) different domes for your head (cut for your bore and stroke) bigger carbs, stock will work but you will be starving your motor so bad it woun't be funny, different pipes (shearers are my top choose) cpis second, your vf2's will work, gonna need bigger filters when you get bigger carbs, be looking for a longer swing arm, I still have to be careful with an 8 over swinger, lock up clutch for sure. different pistions depending on bore size. I would stick with race fuel cause you can run more compresion and more timing. let me know if you have any more questions I can help you with. good luck Edited November 21, 2005 by badassbanshee479 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odaen Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 (edited) Need Cub Domes Crank Pistons Gaskets and Seals Very Good Idea Carbs Filters Intakes TZ Bearing on the Clutch side of the Crank Lockup Pipes Longer Swingarm Health Insurance Edited November 21, 2005 by odaen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justintoxicated Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 get a swingarm that will match your riding style. my friend is running a 7MM cub on a +2 and I plan to run a 4mm cub on a +2. if your more into drag acing than riding then you should definately go with something like a +4 or longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheefreak Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 I have a +4 stroke/+5 long rod crank brand new in the box I may be willing to sell. Thinking of going bigger. Retails for $650. Let me know if you are interested, we can talk a price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketboy Posted November 21, 2005 Report Share Posted November 21, 2005 youll also need some clean underwear ..after yo u do all those mods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigvincent Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 Since we are on the topic...Is this a "do it yourself" or give it to the engine builder type of mod? What is the average price if done "right" (just the engine side of things)? Sorry to thread hop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odaen Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 $2k to $2500 probably. 450 crank 900 cub 160 pistons 469 shearer inframes 350 carbs 85 upp intakes 50 tz bearing 50 gaskets and seals 75 custom domes 75 filters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RATBIKE0130 Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 Don't forget the small stuff... stud extenders or longer case studs cylinder head studs coolant plugs wrist pin bearings coolant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99Banshee Posted November 22, 2005 Report Share Posted November 22, 2005 dont forget the $ 8.95 For the new Fruit of the Looms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducman Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 Whats the deal with needing custom domes? Is it because the cubs dont use a spacer plate under the cylinders like some stroker crank/stock cylinder setups use? I have custom stoker domes for my +4mm, stock cylinders, w/no base plate. Would they work on a +4 stroker cub/ Possibly need a slight shave (maybe a couple thou) if the squish is too tight? Basically, if you had cubs with a stock stroke crank and stock cylinder bore size then you could use standard domes, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odaen Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 I think every builder has their own idea of the squish for cubs. Jim asked me about my domes when I ordered my pipes from him and told me that the domes can make a substantial difference in performance with those cubs. When I asked Cameron, he showed me the domes he makes and went into some math and numbers and shit. I just nodded and acted like I knew what he was telling me, then quickly changed the subject to football. Also, the pistons are 67mm vs a stock 64mm. I know for big bore kits with stock cylinders, you needed to buy big bore domes as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducman Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 So cubs are all big bore cylinders? So you'd run blaster pistons with a +5mm long rod? 67mm is .040" over bore in blaster piston size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RATBIKE0130 Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 Ducman the cub cylinders are cast with a zero deck height for the crank and piston required. If you are a member of planet sand you can click this link to a guide Calvin made for his cylinders Click Me Anyway you shouldn't need custom domes unless your builder has a preference in setup. You will need to run big bore domes with the larger bore cubs. The cylinders come in two bore sizes 65mm for use with Banshee style pistons or 68mm for Blaster pistons. You'll understand what I mean if you can read Calvin's post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducman Posted December 2, 2005 Report Share Posted December 2, 2005 Good info RATBIKE0130 , that is how I thought the cubs were. You shouldn't need custom domes, just bigbore domes if your using the 68mm bore. What would be the advantage of running the 795 series banshee pistons (65mm bore) if you have a long rod or stroker long rod crank? Wouldn't you always be better off with the blaster pistons (68mm bore) due to the larger displacement and bigger port windows in the piston? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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