bobbybonilla Posted July 22, 2005 Report Share Posted July 22, 2005 Ive searched the forums but havent found much about these bearings just axle and swingarm bearings. How should I remove these. One bearing is obviously bigger than the other, should I harmmer on the small bearing towards the large bearing forcing it out of the larger hole? Ive got several pictures here If anyone could carefully explain this I would really appreciate it Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chapmanmd Posted July 22, 2005 Report Share Posted July 22, 2005 Nice pics. Ive always had good luck heating the hub around the bearing with a torch, but not heating the bearing and then using a slide hammer to get them out. In my humble opinion, I would not beat the bearings through the hub, its a good way to trash an otherwise perfectly good hub. When reinstalling, put the new bearings in the freezer for a few hours, heat the hub, and the bearings will drop right in. Just my $.02 worth. Your mileage may vary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbybonilla Posted July 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2005 Nice pics. Ive always had good luck heating the hub around the bearing with a torch, but not heating the bearing and then using a slide hammer to get them out. 395629[/snapback] Thanks its an old Cannon s200 from like 4 years ago, takes great closeups as long as you use the flower looking button (macro button) on closeups. Now when you say heating the hub, and using a slide hammer. How exactly do you mean using a slide hammer? Should all the bearings and sleeve be forced out of one side of the hub? I am assuming you would start hitting the smaller bearing towards the larger bearing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master of Faster Posted July 22, 2005 Report Share Posted July 22, 2005 No, each bearing should be "pulled" or hammed outward of its respective end. Neither bearing should be pressed/hammered all the way through the hub. I stick a long punch through one bearing and beat the opposite bearing out, then flip the hub and beat the other out the other side. Then I use a shop press to put the new bearings in. If you don't have a press, try cooling the bearings like mentioned before and heating the hub, should drop in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbybonilla Posted July 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2005 No, each bearing should be "pulled" or hammed outward of its respective end. Neither bearing should be pressed/hammered all the way through the hub. I stick a long punch through one bearing and beat the opposite bearing out, then flip the hub and beat the other out the other side. Then I use a shop press to put the new bearings in. If you don't have a press, try cooling the bearings like mentioned before and heating the hub, should drop in. 395666[/snapback] thanks for the quick reply Ok I understand. Ill go give her hell, see what I come up with thanks for all the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Xhilaration Posted August 20, 2005 Report Share Posted August 20, 2005 Answered my question too. Thanks. Those pics look like about ten minutes ago in my garage. Not the part about which way they come out, but I have a right front that is "growling" a bit. I pulled the hub off and I wasn't sure if the bearing had been overheated and somewhat seized to the hub or if they're a pressed bearing. Since I dont have a new pair on hand, I didnt pound too much with the drift to see if the inner bearing (the one that's making the noise- feels pretty "choppy" when turning it) would come out. Do these bearings have numbers stamped on them that can be cross referenced like most other bearings, or are they a Yamaha only part? Seals are fine, I just need a new inner bearing soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyBoy Posted August 20, 2005 Report Share Posted August 20, 2005 Put the bare hub in a over set at 200 for 20 minutes and it will grow some as well. Should provide you the clearance you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted August 20, 2005 Report Share Posted August 20, 2005 Do these bearings have numbers stamped on them that can be cross referenced like most other bearings, or are they a Yamaha only part? Seals are fine, I just need a new inner bearing soon. 406499[/snapback] i'm sure a good bearing place could hook you up, but they really aren't that much from the dealer either. just get a kit with new seals also. i definitely wouldn't take the chance with a new bearing and an old seal, unless you'd like to do it all again in the near future. it's not that much more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Xhilaration Posted August 20, 2005 Report Share Posted August 20, 2005 I havent checked the prices yet of a kit. I think my problem stems for the toe being improperly adjusted. When the handlebars and the left front wheel were pointed straight, the right front was pointing to the right more than it should. I'm thinking this put excess stress on the right front inner bearing. I have learned the quad was rolled once early in its life. The right front wheel was replaced along with the upper A-Arm. I'm thinking there may be something tweaked still. I adjusted the toe by eyeballing it last night. Anyone know what the toe specs should be? I mean at least negative or positive. I'm not putting it on a front end machine or anything. How much negative camber should these have as well? The right front seems to be laying in a bit more than the left at top too. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chase@miamiatv.com Posted August 20, 2005 Report Share Posted August 20, 2005 Nice pics. Ive always had good luck heating the hub around the bearing with a torch, but not heating the bearing and then using a slide hammer to get them out. In my humble opinion, I would not beat the bearings through the hub, its a good way to trash an otherwise perfectly good hub. When reinstalling, put the new bearings in the freezer for a few hours, heat the hub, and the bearings will drop right in. Just my $.02 worth. Your mileage may vary. 395629[/snapback] yup listen to him ........ if that dont work get mini sledge hammer and bash away , thats what i did and took a few minutes for each wheel ...... but i just did the same thing you are doing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2twin350s Posted August 20, 2005 Report Share Posted August 20, 2005 i just use along punch and hammer. they come right out. set the punch on the inner race and hit each side evenely. magic racing sells a complete pivort works kit for like 35 bucks. the usually have it to you next day if you are close to michigan.then use a regular socket that fits the outer races to knock em back in. dont forget to put the spacer sleeve in before you put the last bearing in or your screwed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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