350Xhilaration

I'm thinking of getting a new air filter for my mostly stock banshee (FMF Gnarly and Turbine Core IIs). Right now it has an OEM filter and airbox. It's jetted spot on for no lid. I need to keep the box as I'm in PA and we have lots of mud/water and I don't want pods. I'm not looking for an increase in power, just a replacement that will fit in the stock box. I have the plastic "frame/cage" that the filter stretches over screwed to the black airbox so the seal doesn't come loose or the filter assembly doesn't fall off. Do the UNI filters slide over the existing white plastic frame/cage thing? Has anyone used the Readyfilter brand filters? Thanks for any advice.

Anyone have an OEM lever they want to sell? send price shipped to Ebensburg, PA 15931. Thanks

try www.3wheelerworldforums.com and my site...might get a better response. Good luck!

Sounds reasonable, but I'd prefer blue or black nets to match. Thanks anyway.

What brand nerfs? Price?

I just talked with Jeff for about 20 minutes. Gonna get things ordered next week. Might do the timing plate and shift spring at the same time. Gotta look into available funds. Thanks for the responses fellas!

I hit the link on the page and found these parts... Do you know who is the mfg of these parts? http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=34 One of the reasons I ask is I replaced the clutch last year in my 85 350X with Vesrah fibers and kept the stock steels and used new OEM springs. I'm not really thrilled with the outcome (at idle when hot will "chug" forward when clutch is disengaged - adjustment changes with operating temp) and I'm not 100% sure which of the parts is causing the problem (Vesrah fibers or using the original steels - or the combo of using old steels and new fibers.) and don't want to go through the time and expense of changing the clutch and having unsatisfactory results again. I think I'll shoot an email over to someone at F.A.S.T Thanks for the tip.

I'm going to be replacing my clutch on my stock (aside from pipes) 2000 banshee. It's not slipping yet, but there seems to be no adjustment left and it engages when the lever is almost completely released. Questions: 1. Are the stock metal plates aluminum or steel? 2. If they are aluminum, should I replace with steel? 3. OEM parts or aftermarket (remember all stock with no plans of mods) 4. If aftermarket, fibers and steels only or springs as well? (I don't like a heavy pull and don't need the uber clamping pressure) Any input appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Nice looking machine. Good price. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=110001849339

I'm looking for an OEM front rim for a Z400 or a matched pair of 4/144 10x5 rims. I believe many Hondas, Suzuki Z400, and Kawisaki KFX400 all share the same pattern. If anyone has what I need, please get in touch with me. [email protected] Thanks in advance. **Wheel found**

I havent checked the prices yet of a kit. I think my problem stems for the toe being improperly adjusted. When the handlebars and the left front wheel were pointed straight, the right front was pointing to the right more than it should. I'm thinking this put excess stress on the right front inner bearing. I have learned the quad was rolled once early in its life. The right front wheel was replaced along with the upper A-Arm. I'm thinking there may be something tweaked still. I adjusted the toe by eyeballing it last night. Anyone know what the toe specs should be? I mean at least negative or positive. I'm not putting it on a front end machine or anything. How much negative camber should these have as well? The right front seems to be laying in a bit more than the left at top too. Thanks in advance.

Answered my question too. Thanks. Those pics look like about ten minutes ago in my garage. Not the part about which way they come out, but I have a right front that is "growling" a bit. I pulled the hub off and I wasn't sure if the bearing had been overheated and somewhat seized to the hub or if they're a pressed bearing. Since I dont have a new pair on hand, I didnt pound too much with the drift to see if the inner bearing (the one that's making the noise- feels pretty "choppy" when turning it) would come out. Do these bearings have numbers stamped on them that can be cross referenced like most other bearings, or are they a Yamaha only part? Seals are fine, I just need a new inner bearing soon.

So far I love my gnarlys. I went for an hour long ride with my kids and a guy on a grizzly. My 5 year ols sat on the back with me and the 8 year old rode her DS90. I don't think I shifted out of first and hardly had to work the clutch. I usually take my thumper 350X, but I wanted to see how the banshee would behave at slow speeds. It did great.

rode this weekend with some guys/gal from ohio. got to launch the banshee a few times. hit my sig for link to some pics.

I just went through this over the last few days. I have a stock 2000 banshee, with TORS, Stock carbs and emgine, FMF gnarlys with Turbine core II spark arrestors, and a twin air filter. I put 260 mains in it and left everything else alone. With the lid and snorkel on, it was too rich. I pulled the lid and it runs like it should. I would say that I'm close but not perfect since I needed to pull the lid and snorkel. I'm at 2140 feet in western PA. it was about 75-78 degrees yesterday when I ran it. I am by no means an expert on this and you might seriously want to consider what the other guys on here say. I'm just sharing my experience with a similar situation. Hope you get it tuned soon. Mine really came alive after jetting it "properly" (still need to tweak it a bit)

Pulled the lid off, warmed it up and opened it up. Not a dead spot in the whole throttle range. Pulls like a train (compared to my trike) from bottom to top. I may put the lid back on and pull the snorkel and see if it still runs well. I havent had time to do a plug check yet. I need new plugs first anyway. Thanks guys for the info.

Well, I thought about this while in class tonight. There was spark a plenty before I pulled the carbs. I figured the TORS probably was responding to a problem somewhere. I thought that I could have got a slide in 180 degrees out of whack on 1 carb. I pulled the slide out of the right carb, spun it, dropped it back in and kicked it. Whaddya know...Spark. Put the plug wire back on, put the lid back on the airbox, dropped the seat on and it fired on the second kick. Here's the crappy part. It runs way worse now throughout the throttle range. mid throttle is probably the best, but it is waaaay too rich. I pulled the choke and it damn near fell on its face in 3rd. Once again, I have no time to try tuning it. Kids have to go to bed, school bright and early tomorrow and it's dark out. Bright side of this is that I know a lil more about the TORS and that it's now too rich. Thanks to all that posted in other threads before me. I am learning new stuff about these every day. Sure is different than my thumper.

Here's a quote from Toomey's site "Next, remove the whole thumb throttle assembly from the handlebars and unplug the connecting electrical wires. Unplug the wires going from the stock carb tops into the wiring harness. Now, unplug the T.O.R.S. control box located above the left cylinder head, on the frame. (Some people call this the "rev-limiter", but in fact there is NO rev-limiter on a Banshee other than the stock pipes) You must unplug this little black box or the bike won't start." Looks like that will be what I try tonight around 9. If I can at least get spark again, I'll be happy.The rest is tuning.

I didnt do anything with the TORS except unscrew them from the carb tops. Can the slides be put in backwards? What will cause the no spark condition? The slides are going all the way down (closed) as far as I can tell. I am all for disconnecting the TORS. Can this be done without cutting the harness? Can all of the connectors just be unplugged?

Ok. Newbie issues. Last night I pulled my carbs and put 260 mains in instead of 200s. I didnt get a chance to srtart it. I get a few minutes tonight to actually start it. No spark. I am assuming it has something to do with the TORS. I checked any connectors that may have got pulled on while removing the carbs in such a rip fire ass hurry last night. All are connected. Is there a procedure for syncing the carbs or getting the TORS working properly. Yes I know the best thing to do is scrap the TORS altogether, but that's not an option right now. I need to get this running properly before Saturday AM. Can the connectors be unplugged and jumped, bypassing the TORS? If so, which of the wires at the connector would it be? I havent unplugged the connector yet, So I guess if there are only two wires, they get jumped. Thanks in advance.

I'd have been a lil torqued off. I'm taking it riding this weekend with some guys that are coming in from out of state for Quadfest and didnt want to roach my new banshee. I may run it with the 260s for now (since I dont have any other mains accumulated yet) even if I do have to run the lid and snorkel til I get some bigger mains. Thanks for the quick response.

I got this banshee over the fourth. It has FMF gnarly pipes with turbine core II spark arrestors and a twin air filter with lid and snorkel. I pulled the seat off the other night and found some paperwork. There was a manual, some FMF stickers and two main jets in a plastic bag along with some FMF paperwork. The paperwork said to use the provided 260 main jets when installing the pipes to get close and then you can fine tune it. Well, since the 260s were in the bag, I wanted to know what were in the carbs. I havent had a chance to run this thing yet wide open to see if it breaks up, bogs, etc. I had about 30 minutes of free time tonight so I pulled the left carb off. took 9 minutes. (I thought you guys said these were a pain in the ass to remove) Anyway, it had a 200 main jet in it. I put the 260 in and pulled the right carb off and replaced the 200 with a 260 and reinstalled both carbs. That killed my 30 minutes and I havent started it yet. Banshee is all stock except for the pipes and silencers. I'm thinking it was too lean the way it was. Especially after reading about how most people run 300 + mains in their modded banshees. Any experience with main jet recommendations to start at before doing a chop? Kinda like boresighting a new scope on a rifle. Get it close and then start tuning. Thanks

Thx guys. All i used was generic SOS pads. The pipes were (and still are in places) nasty. It did clean up pretty good though.

My wife just left for an 11Pm-7AM shift at the hospital. Hope she doesnt have to pull too many lead fragments from peoples heads... A long time ago I made some mini pipe bombs from aluminum arrow shafts. Bend a section til it breaks off (about a 6 inch section), crimp one end, fill with black powder, wick in the other end, crimp it and that's all. Last one I made I stuck in the ground, lit it ran back about 20 feet and waited. A few seconds later, a big bang and a chunk of arrow shaft buried itself about an inch deep in the wood siding of the garage about 6 inches from my head. Needless to say, I've never screwed around with home mades again. Have fun, but be safe. I hate hearing ER stories about people doin stupid shit, unless they really don't get hurt too badly, then I laugh my ass off.

Yup, they're gnarlys. LOL