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Lowering Kit


6sic6

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Hey all,

Just bought YFZ450 shocks to try out. I haven't got them yet, but I've read in alot of other posts that ride height is increased by 1". Anybody try these lowering kits or are they like wheel spacers, Not A Good Idea.

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Hey all,

Just bought YFZ450 shocks to try out.  I haven't got them yet, but I've read in alot of other posts that ride height is increased by 1".  Anybody try these lowering kits or are they like wheel spacers, Not A Good Idea.

343297[/snapback]

 

 

Yeah show some pics if you have them. I put mine on and it sitts too high. I'm not sure if i wanna take the preload out. Any recomendations?

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illl sell you a used set shipped for 50 bucks as long as your in the lower 48.  I raced about 4 TT races on them and they worked great with the stock shocks.  Not sure about the 450 shocks.  PM me if yer interested.

 

They go for $65+ shipping on ebay.

343414[/snapback]

 

 

My brother uses 450 shocks on his shee with the lowering blocks, it can be done but its a real tight fit!! mst times you have to take the lower A arm off to install the shock..

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I took mine out when I installed the elka dunes. Seemed like the better quality shocks didn't like sitting out there due to the decreased leverage factor. It rode much plusher with the shocks mounted inboard at the factory locations. Dunno on the 450 shox, but I would play with preload first and see how it goes.

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i use to run those with my stock banshee shocks and i honestly wouldnt run them again if i were going to be doing anything other than flattrack racing, i WOULD NOT jump with them because the suspension was almost completely rigid they just make the shocks sit to horizontal and would beat you to death on anything but smooth ground, i would try lowering them via pre-load first.

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Thanks for the help. I kind of wondered if they might make for a stiff ride. I'll try the preload first. Sounds like with preload adjusted front end will be high, but will level out with rider aboard.

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  • 1 year later...

What about the Durablue lowering kits? They move the upper shock mount and not the lower shock mount so you dont get the odd angle on the shock. I have a set of raptor 700r elka elites and I'm thinking about putting the lowering kit on so I can get the full travel out of them since they are almost 2 inches longer than the stock banshee shocks. I have to press them just to get them in now and I dont have enough travel in my opinion so I wanna give it more. By adding the lowering kit I'll get an extra 1.75 in out of the shock which is pretty close to the full stroke. I race cross country and deal very little with jumps plus with the elites it will make a better ride anyway.

 

Let me know if any of you guys have this kit and what you think about it. I'm probably going to buy it tomorrow.

 

frntlowr2.jpg

 

Most of you are wondering why I have the raptor shocks and its because they mount the same as the banshee and I was able to get the elites triples for about 800 dollars cheaper with 2 inches more travel. I am eventually going to get long travel a-arms but I'm saving up (since I dropped a grand for the shocks) for a set of custom built ones.

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Hey all,

Just bought YFZ450 shocks to try out. I haven't got them yet, but I've read in alot of other posts that ride height is increased by 1". Anybody try these lowering kits or are they like wheel spacers, Not A Good Idea.

i have those on mine but i only use it for draging you can't jump or trail ride with them. they work for me draging

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you dont wanna take any of the preload out of the shocks. theyw ill bottom like a mofo, as i have experienced. no fun, whatsoever.

 

I doubt that I will ever bottom out unless I overshoot a jump in our small mx section. I race cross country and these shocks are nearly 17 inches long from bolt to bolt. I have over 3 inches of preload adjustment (I really have around 5 but after about 4 I start to lose my low speed compression adjustments as it gets too stiff) with high and low speed compression and rebound. These shocks have 1.6 in more travel over the stock banshee shock and 1.1 in. more travel over the banshee elka elites. I'm looking to take advantage of this by either this lowering kit (which in fact will not lower the quad but will make the mount long enough to reach mount to mount) or I will have new upper mounts made and welded to the frame.

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actually, from my measurements the yfz450 shocks, in stock locations actually limit travel. the shock body is so long, that its capable of those numbers, but wont actually cycle them w/o relocated mounts.

 

i hope someone an convince me otherwise, cause im about to hack my frame and get out the tig box.

 

EDIT: ok im a jackass with ADD, and didnt read your whole thread.

 

i wonder how much cutting hacking will be required for this?

Edited by gimmeabeer
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actually, from my measurements the yfz450 shocks, in stock locations actually limit travel. the shock body is so long, that its capable of those numbers, but wont actually cycle them w/o relocated mounts.

 

i hope someone an convince me otherwise, cause im about to hack my frame and get out the tig box.

 

EDIT: ok im a jackass with ADD, and didnt read your whole thread.

 

i wonder how much cutting hacking will be required for this?

 

There is not much cutting and hacking that has to be done. You have to cut off your mount at about a 45 degree angle but you can leave the rest of it welded to your frame. I'm going to have it rewelded in spots they didnt weld in the beginning for strength and then I'm going to have new mounts fabricated and then tigged on top of the old ones so they'll just be covered up. Then I'll have the headlight mounts cut off of the old mounts and welded to the top of the new ones. So its basically the same mount and shock angle, only with a higher top bolting position. The main thing will be making sure it is strong enough to handle any type of jumps I'll be taking. I dont do alot of motorcross but I do enjoy jumping everyonce and a while. For my first few races, I'll have to keep a very close eye on the welds to make sure non are failing and nothing is bending. Hardest part of the project is making the new mounts and knowing how sturdy they are.

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