TurbochargedOne Posted October 28, 2004 Report Posted October 28, 2004 It's getting cold in my neck of the woods, and my Banshee is starting to notice it. It's starting to get what seems to be a lean hesitation when shifting under heavy throttle. Who here re-jets for the winter and who just leaves the jetting the same? If you do re-jet, how much richer do you usually go? Quote
sredish Posted October 28, 2004 Report Posted October 28, 2004 Then rejet bro. I check my plugs on almost every ride. So, I'll rejet when it's necessary. Now, just because I check plugs often, doesn't mean i'll change jets very often. Maybe only 2 or 3 times a year, or if I feel I've moved in elevation enough or if it feels like it wants it. Generally, as the winter season comes in, I'll notice the plugs leaning a little or maybe a little hesitation to start off with, so I know it's time. There's no rule set in stone, jetting is reading, feeling, and knowing your machine. I know how it's supposed to be and I know when it's not how it normally is, so I know when to react. The jets in your carb are the lifeline to your motor, that's why I'm always checking plugs and am not afraid to just go ahead and throw another size in if I feel it needs it. Remember, worse thing you can do by richening it too much is maybe foul a plug, it's much much worse to ignore it and end up lean. Quote
frocashmoney24 Posted October 28, 2004 Report Posted October 28, 2004 i rejet in the winter, hell you have to if you want a ride where you dont have to worry about blowing up your quad. i norm move up a jet for every 15 degree's dropped in temp Quote
TurbochargedOne Posted October 28, 2004 Author Report Posted October 28, 2004 Generally speaking, how many jet sizes richer does one go for winter weather? Naturally I realize that there are many factors, i'm just looking for a starting point. Let's assume that the quad was jetted for spring/summer riding. No, I don't know what main jets are in the carbs right now. Engine Mods are... Pro Circuit Platinum pipes/silencers No airbox lid and Pro Design air filter V Force reeds And I am also assuming that it is indeed the main jets that will be changed (since we are talking WOT)? Quote
roosthrower Posted October 29, 2004 Report Posted October 29, 2004 dude you guys are lucky it's startin to cool off. round these parts, the highs are in the high 80's low 90's. Quote
sredish Posted October 29, 2004 Report Posted October 29, 2004 dude you guys are lucky it's startin to cool off. round these parts, the highs are in the high 80's low 90's. herd dat!! I was in CO last week. It was low of 28 to high of 40, then came home to a low of 70 and a high of 87. WTF!! Quote
Nightrider Posted October 29, 2004 Report Posted October 29, 2004 Turbochargedone,I see you have a couple of quick GN's,are you running Terry Houston downpipes? Quote
TurbochargedOne Posted October 29, 2004 Author Report Posted October 29, 2004 I run a THDP in the T-Type, not the GN. Quote
superchicken Posted October 29, 2004 Report Posted October 29, 2004 for the time being before you rejet put the air box lid back on,it will richen u up a bit.your gn is it stock running those times? Quote
Nightrider Posted October 30, 2004 Report Posted October 30, 2004 Turbo,The reason I ask is,He's a friend of a friends,He operates his pipe shop in the back building of a car wash he owns in strongsville,Ohio.He used to build engines for Summit Racing equipment in Akron before he got into his own business. He's a certifiable genuis when it come to Turbo Buicks.His 87' GN is running somewhere around high 8's low 9's.His T-type is his daily driver,that thing runs in the high 10's Quote
TurbochargedOne Posted October 30, 2004 Author Report Posted October 30, 2004 The T-Type is stock from the throttle body to the oil pan. It runs a bigger turbo, intercooler and injectors (with a second inline fuel pump). it also has a 3" THDP and Hooker exhaust. Engine-wise, it's as stock as it came in 1987. The GN has more go-fast goodies, but still runs many stock parts. The heads are stock castings (ported), lower intake manifold is stock (ported), block is factory (bored .030" over and o-ringed), rods are stock, crank is stock, pistons are forged. The turbo, intercooler and fuel system are much larger than stock and it also runs Accel DFI. Both cars can be driven daily. The T gets in excess of 20mpg and the GN gets around 18mpg. Both cars will idle all day at 900rpm in 100* heat and not care one bit. The GN will light the tires up from a 60mph roll and keep them lit until you get off the throttle. The T is also traction limited at speed, but less so than the GN. Either car can get away form you if you're not careful. The GN is currently getting a TH400 trans (both cars run the factory issued 2004R trannys (though beefed up considerably). The GN is also getting a bigger turbo and injectors. It should go somewhere in the 9s. Back on topic...I don't have the stock air box lid. I'm supposed to go riding today with a couple guys. It's a little warmer today (68*) and rainy (humid), so I think it should be ok. Gotta get my hands on some main jets! Quote
TurbochargedOne Posted November 6, 2004 Author Report Posted November 6, 2004 (edited) Ok, back on topic... Took the carbs off today to see what mains are in them and also adjust the needle clip position. Mains are currently 280s and the needles were in the 3rd (stock) position. I moved the needles to the 4th position and put everything back together (dealer closed before I could get there to pick up main jets). Big difference. There is a slight hesitation at just above idle when cruising so I will probably have to adjust the airscrews and more than likely adjust carb sync. Above that slight hesitation, the freakin thing rips! I was careful not to go WOT while testing after adjusting the needles so I could get an accurate idea of what she felt like between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle. It will loft the front end in 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th (no room for 6th gear) at 3/4 throttle, no problem. I think going to the 4th clip position was the way to go. Now, seeing that it gets quite cold around here in winter and my riding elevation is only in the 460-1300ft range, I really think 280s are going to be too lean for the winter. Looks like I will at least be trying a pair of 290s and go from there. Edited November 6, 2004 by TurbochargedOne Quote
lincster Posted November 11, 2004 Report Posted November 11, 2004 Ok, back on topic... Took the carbs off today to see what mains are in them and also adjust the needle clip position. Mains are currently 280s and the needles were in the 3rd (stock) position. I moved the needles to the 4th position and put everything back together (dealer closed before I could get there to pick up main jets). Big difference. There is a slight hesitation at just above idle when cruising so I will probably have to adjust the airscrews and more than likely adjust carb sync. Above that slight hesitation, the freakin thing rips! I was careful not to go WOT while testing after adjusting the needles so I could get an accurate idea of what she felt like between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle. It will loft the front end in 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th (no room for 6th gear) at 3/4 throttle, no problem. I think going to the 4th clip position was the way to go. Now, seeing that it gets quite cold around here in winter and my riding elevation is only in the 460-1300ft range, I really think 280s are going to be too lean for the winter. Looks like I will at least be trying a pair of 290s and go from there. 278022[/snapback] What pipes and air filter setup are you running? A lean bike will run well..... just not for long. Quote
TurbochargedOne Posted November 12, 2004 Author Report Posted November 12, 2004 Mods are posted in the 4th post of this thread. Quote
lincster Posted November 12, 2004 Report Posted November 12, 2004 Mods are posted in the 4th post of this thread. 279812[/snapback] You need more jetting all the way around with pipes and no air box lid. Especially at that elevation, low temps and humid. You are going to burn it up. Good luck. Quote
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