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Posted

Hi all...

 

My son recently purchased a 1996 Banshee...and now has clutch problems about a week later. The clutch does not disengage. There is very little tension when you squeeze the clutch lever. The push lever near the left side crankcase moves with very little tension as well. We have removed the right side of the crankcase and exposed the clutch. Should it move when you move the push lever? It does not. Also, the screw that is in the dead center of the clutch, will not turn. I don't know how much torque it should take to turn, but I was afraid I'd strip the shoulders if I turned any harder. When I removed the crankcase cover, the retaining nut that holds that screw in position was loose in the case. It goes back on, but it looks as if that adjusting screw has slipped back somewhat into the clutch assembly, and the retaining nut only goes on partway before it reaches the clutch. Does that make sense? The screw is NOT stripped or cross-threaded.

 

Any ideas? Thanks for any suggestions?

Posted

Get a clymers, it will make what you're seeing, make sense. I'd pull the clutch off, when you do remove the 6 clutch bolts & springs, the clutch plates & pressure plate should all come off, tip it up a bit & the ball should come out. Pray to god the little ball didn't weld itself to the rod. :wacko: You may just be waaay out of adjustment, or have a toasted clutch. Look at the clutch plates for wear, the manual gives specs on the correct width of the metal plates also. When adjusted correctly the arm on the case should have a little play in it(say a little under a quarter of an inch or so), but will be aligned with the arrow on the case. You need that freeplay there to help keep the ball from welding to the rod. And yes, you should be able to see the clutch dis-engauge when pulling the lever with the sidecase off. Hope this makes sense & helps ya out a bit. Hang tight & some other's will chime in... ;) Good luck! :cheers:

Posted

im with led on gettin the clymers, and everything he said, but i'd take the clutch apart, taking off the screws springs, then taking out the plates making sure none are broken or warped. then tip it to see if the ball and rod are welded together. look behind the clutch basket and make sure evrythings ok, rebuild it, put eveyrthing back in, readjust the nut and the cable and see how she works

Posted

Guys,

 

Thanks for the responses. A couple of followup questions:

 

1. Zepplin, is there any place in Kansas City I can get a Clymers? Winfield is a ways off, but perhaps you know this area...

2. I will indeed pray that the ball is not welded to the rod...omminus dominus qui pacem gloriam blah blah blahOK, now why am I praying that? Are those parts expensive and a pain in the ass to replace? Under what conditions would this happen?

3. When removing the clutch, the Haynes manual shows something about some tool to keep everything aligned? I need to look at it again, but is this something to be concerned about? How easily does this come out? I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but haven't worked on ATVs.

 

Thanks again

 

Mike

Posted

If you can't find a cylmer manual, try locating one on line, even a used one is better then nothing.

 

The ball and rod are not too expensive, but they are a pain to get out if they are welded together. First need to find out if that is your problem.

 

I don't know about any special tool to just take out the clutch. Never needed any alignment tool.

 

 

IF you look at where the clutch cable attachs to the arm under the carbs, before going at the clutch(work-wise), try to pull on the arm to see if the clutch moves. If it does, your problem is more likely with the cable or the adjuster on the handle bars. Your a little hard to understand about what you were going after in the clutch. Usually, folks have problems with cables not maintained both with adjustments and lubercating. Now if the previous owner messed up the internals on the clutch that is a different matter. Let us know what you find as a problem or source of the problem.

Posted

lack of oil and holding in the cluch while coasting will make them weld togehter, there cheap, like 12 bucks for both pieces, but if there welded togheter, u have to slip the cases in order to get them out. i never though about this before, is the spring on the piece going into the case? maybe its not in all the way to by some weired chance. after u pop off the clutch cover, theres a nut in the middle of the pressure plate. loosen it, then pop the piece out of the cases, inspect it, maybe the nob on the end is broken? but def get a clymers, its step by step, ebay has a ton of em

Posted

Hey thanks to everybody for these replies. I think I'm well-armed enough now to go in there. I'll follow up when I have it fixed, OR if I get into a jam. This is a great forum.

 

Wallynut, sorry I'm not being too clear on my description...I rewrote it about three times and it still didn't sound too clear. I'll snap a few pics, and if I am not successful in my initial go, I'll post here. :blink:

 

Mike

Posted

OK, here's an update on the clutch surgery. Got the clutch plates off, and thought that would be it...apparently the large nut has to come off as well (circled in red on the attached photo) before I can get the adjusting rod off (circled in yellow). If I am reading the manual right. the push rod and ball are behind that adjusting rod, correct?

 

OK, here's the latest problem. I can't get the !#$!$# nut off. I fashioned a tool to hold the clutch boss in place, but couldn't get enough torque to break that nut free. banghead

 

SO, what's next, oh great gurus of the banshee dominion? Thanks as always

 

Mike

Posted

Followup question...sorry forgot to include this in previous post. Where can I find a tool like the clutch holder mentioned in Clymer, or the Grabbit? The only Grabbit I have found on the net is the little picker-upper "gizmo," nothing that would be useful for holding a clutch. <_<

Posted

I just went through all of this so I feel your pain. I just held on to the clutch boss with a glove on and hit it a few times with my impact wrench. I think that is about the only way to get it off. its a 33mm socket that fits on the nut.

Posted (edited)

Impact wrench!!!

 

Whatever you do, do not try to jam something between the "fingers" of the basket and the boss, the fingers can break off.

 

Don't ask how I know...

 

If you have access to welding equipment you could fabricate your own holder with a couple of the "steels". You'd have to replace them then <_<

Edited by J.J.
Posted

AUGHHHHHHH!!! No good dirty #!#$!#$#$!

 

OK, I got the nut off, and that adjusting screw should ease right on out, right? WRONG!

 

The screw is exposed, but will not either come out ("unscrew") or pull out. (See picture). What can I do, guys? I'm lost, and !#$!$#%!@#$ discouraged.

 

Thanks as always.

 

:flush:

Posted

BMackKC, I see you're not getting any answers there bud. I thought I'd give this one a nudge back to the top to see if any one has any inspirational ideas.

 

My honest opinion is that the ball & rod are stuck together.

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