BMackKC

I have the stock pilot jets and it is already in the fourth position. Should i be getting 27.5 polit you think? I tightened the air screw all the way in and backed both out equally that kind of helped. I am still losing take off and mid range power the top end power is nice.

Yes that was me that had all the clutch problems. It is fixed now. I put a whole new shaft ball adjuster and push lever on it. Then i went ahead and had it bored. It now has 66mm wisco pro lite pistons in it. The guy that did it said i had to much clearence in between the cylinders like 23/1000 clearence. It had compression of 89 in both cyliders. I got it back on the street and it runs but not good enough. It bogs until it hits the powerband. I am mixing the gas at 32:1 is that to rich or about right? Thanks for all the help

You can go to any yamaha dealer and buy jets and mains. My jets costed me a whole 3 bucks each. They are not that expensive. There is no deal if u dont have 12 bucks then you shouldnt be riding a banshee

trued and welded cranks are also good if u like to jump. Riding at the dunes you will need this. I just had to do that because my crank twisted and knocked a hole in the block

You definately need to rebuild your compression should be over 130 in each cylinder anytime it gets lower you need to rebuild. You should probably bore the cylinders because with compression that low your clearance between you cylinders and your pistons will be huge. That is what i was just told by my mechanic.

no offense taken i posted there i was just wondering if anyone here had any idea seeing as how performance shops know that kinda thing. I posted on both so i will get several hopefully

i have a 1996 banshee with t5 exhaust and dual k&n airfilter system. I recently had it rebuilt and the thing hasnt ran right since. I have 300 main jets in it. It backfires and spits at low rpms. The banshee has no power. I was racing someone on a z400 and it was killing me. It plain and simple will not pull. It did the same with 270 jets. Are these to big. Before it was rebuilt the 300 mains worked fine now they wont work at all and neither will the 270 mains. What size jets should i be using?

i have a 1996 banshee with t5 exhaust and dual k&n airfilter system. I recently had it rebuilt and the thing hasnt ran right since. I have 300 main jets in it. It backfires and spits at low rpms. The banshee has no power. I was racing someone on a z400 and it was killing me. It plain and simple will not pull. It did the same with 270 jets. Are these to big. Before it was rebuilt the 300 mains worked fine now they wont work at all and neither will the 270 mains. What size jets should i be using?

Well, this chapter of the story has reached its unfortunate conclusion. I was unable to drill into the rod...hardened steel. The push lever would not come out, although a little force with a pry bar finally freed it. It was scored pretty badly, it looks like it was welded to the rod as well. It doesn't appear that there is any way to get that 1#$!!@#$ rod out without cracking the case...and that's beyond my ability, so off to the shop it goes. THANKS to all of you...especially FROCASHMONEY and LEDOFTHEZEP for the advice, lessons, and moral support. I'm sure there are others, but it's late and I'm brain dead. One more questions: Has anybody compiled a list of things to look for when buying a used ATV? Mike

Ledofthezep... No, I haven't removed the push lever assembly. Should I have done that?

Frocashmoney, thanks for the reply. Another stupid question (do I sound paranoid or what?), but "reach in" where? That rod runs through the shaft, where can I get ahold of it?

Another thought...could I drill a hole in the rod and use an extractor to pull it out? Or will that rod just spin freely? Looking at the transmissionsons on ebay...I was expecting to see them in-case, but instead, they're in pieces. Is that the standard way of selling them, or not? Sorry, that's probably a stupid question, but I'm still pretty new to this 4-wheeler thing. Thanks Mike

The second picture is a close-up of the shaft. The pushrod is in the center, obviously. It's hard to tell from the picture, but it's about 2 inches back. I'm concerned about the rough edge, which is pointed out in yellow. Is that part of the shaft, or the rod? How am I supposed to get that POS out of there? Thanks as always... Also, any suggestions on where to find a used Banshee transmission? I'm thinking it might not be a bad idea to have one in case this situation takes a bad turn for the worse, or for future use. Mike

Hey thanks to all for the help. Much swearing later, the adjuster rod and ball are removed. As you can see, the ball was very much welded to the adjuster, AND to the push rod. Now for the next step: How do I get the push rod out of there? I inserted a small magnet, but it's not strong enough to pull the push rod. I'm thinking of making an electromagnet out of a bolt. (See post 2 for the second picture and remainder of question...sorry, but I couldn't see any other way to get two pictures posted)

AUGHHHHHHH!!! No good dirty #!#$!#$#$! OK, I got the nut off, and that adjusting screw should ease right on out, right? WRONG! The screw is exposed, but will not either come out ("unscrew") or pull out. (See picture). What can I do, guys? I'm lost, and !#$!$#%!@#$ discouraged. Thanks as always.

Followup question...sorry forgot to include this in previous post. Where can I find a tool like the clutch holder mentioned in Clymer, or the Grabbit? The only Grabbit I have found on the net is the little picker-upper "gizmo," nothing that would be useful for holding a clutch.

OK, here's an update on the clutch surgery. Got the clutch plates off, and thought that would be it...apparently the large nut has to come off as well (circled in red on the attached photo) before I can get the adjusting rod off (circled in yellow). If I am reading the manual right. the push rod and ball are behind that adjusting rod, correct? OK, here's the latest problem. I can't get the !#$!$# nut off. I fashioned a tool to hold the clutch boss in place, but couldn't get enough torque to break that nut free. SO, what's next, oh great gurus of the banshee dominion? Thanks as always Mike

Hey thanks to everybody for these replies. I think I'm well-armed enough now to go in there. I'll follow up when I have it fixed, OR if I get into a jam. This is a great forum. Wallynut, sorry I'm not being too clear on my description...I rewrote it about three times and it still didn't sound too clear. I'll snap a few pics, and if I am not successful in my initial go, I'll post here. Mike

Guys, Thanks for the responses. A couple of followup questions: 1. Zepplin, is there any place in Kansas City I can get a Clymers? Winfield is a ways off, but perhaps you know this area... 2. I will indeed pray that the ball is not welded to the rod...omminus dominus qui pacem gloriam blah blah blahOK, now why am I praying that? Are those parts expensive and a pain in the ass to replace? Under what conditions would this happen? 3. When removing the clutch, the Haynes manual shows something about some tool to keep everything aligned? I need to look at it again, but is this something to be concerned about? How easily does this come out? I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but haven't worked on ATVs. Thanks again Mike

Hi all... My son recently purchased a 1996 Banshee...and now has clutch problems about a week later. The clutch does not disengage. There is very little tension when you squeeze the clutch lever. The push lever near the left side crankcase moves with very little tension as well. We have removed the right side of the crankcase and exposed the clutch. Should it move when you move the push lever? It does not. Also, the screw that is in the dead center of the clutch, will not turn. I don't know how much torque it should take to turn, but I was afraid I'd strip the shoulders if I turned any harder. When I removed the crankcase cover, the retaining nut that holds that screw in position was loose in the case. It goes back on, but it looks as if that adjusting screw has slipped back somewhat into the clutch assembly, and the retaining nut only goes on partway before it reaches the clutch. Does that make sense? The screw is NOT stripped or cross-threaded. Any ideas? Thanks for any suggestions?