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Posted

I am in the process of putting my motor together...this is the first time and I am learning alot, but keep running into speedbumps :cry:

 

I just got the tranny put into the case and a couple things came up...

 

First the bearing on the countershaft is stuck to the shaft(Looks like it may have rusted on) I still spins fine, but it does feel like there is a little play....I don't know how much is acceptable...so do I need to change this?

 

Next...

I was trying to adjust the shift mechanism and I don't understand how the adjust bolt works...It looks like it is just spinning and I don't see how it makes a difference (Please explain :wacko: ) I tried to adjust it so the gap between the two hooks on either side of the linkage match (wording?), but it doesn't feel like it is shifting normal, and it also feels like it is really hard to shift gears (granted, I am working on a bench, so I don't have leverage with my foot, but it just doesn't seem normal).

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

T :whoa:

Posted

I was just reading about some post about adding a rubber washer to the shift shaft....

 

so that brings me to my next question:

 

How important is it that you add the plate to hold the clutch shaft in while trying to adjust the shifting?

 

Also, please help me understand how the adjustment screw works :(

 

Thanks,

T :whoa:

Posted

The adjustment screw is a cam. turn a lobe with a flat head screw driver and it moves the center on the springs around. But if the lobe is worn it won't move as much. Hope this helps.

Posted

Thanks Oilsmoke!

 

Does that mean that it doesn't matter how far you screw in the screw, but rather what angle you screw it in?

 

When I turn the screw it does move around, but it doesn't move much and it doesn't seem to ever be equally spaced?

Maybe I should purchase a new one?

 

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Troy

Posted
It doesn't have to move much, it is a fine adjustment. As long as it's close to equal, it should work.

 

Yeh, what he said.

Posted

Make sure you got it in gear when you adjust it.No it doesn't matter how far you screw it in.I would set it close to the bottom pin for up shifting.You can also cut the bottom of the hole that slips over the adjustment screw to help it shift better.It will give it more leverage to pull it in gear.It doesn't take much.Under a 1/8 of an inch,but be sure not to cut to much because it will over shift it(skip a gear). B)

Posted

:cry: So I bought another adjustment screw because mine had a groove wore into it, but I am still having problems:(

 

I am just trying to make sure that it will go into all gears before I put the cases back together. I can get it to go into all of the gears one direction, but when coming back, I get stuck at 2nd gear.

 

I am spinning the clutch shaft while I am checking this, but I want to make sure that things work properly before I get the things bonded together.

 

Could there be something I am missing? :cry:

 

Thanks,

T :whoa:

Posted

Well All you can do is center it best you can; there is no other choice.

As far a bonding the case halves that is not a problem because you don't need to split the cases to work on the shifter mech. I also don't bond the clutch cover, so I may be able to remove it easier to do clutch adjustments down the road. Because of the vibration of the motor when running it should shift fine, Unlike setting on a workbench.

Posted

Thanks again for the reply Oilsmoke!

 

I just want to make sure that I don't get the bike back together and find out that something is wrong with the transmission (mis-assembled or anything).

 

I just took the transmission out of my old cases and put them into some used cases I bought here on the HQ.

 

So why do you think the bike won't get back to nuetral after shifting down all the gears? Do you think it is because I am not able to spin the clutch as fast as it will normally...or the fact that there is no oil in the case right now?

 

This may be a case (and probably is) of me being overly cautious, but better safe than sorry :shootself:

 

If you have any further suggestions, tips, or tricks, please share.

 

There have been alot of people reading this, but not many replies, so I don't know if they don't know...want to know...or ???

 

Thanks again!

 

T :whoa:

Posted

I know what you are going through. I just build my 12 port Stroker and than I blow 2nd gear. So i hade to rebiuld the engine 2 times.

I was told that the Banshee Tranny is Just a simple, rough tough design.

 

The lack of oil and Vibration will not help it shift any smother. ;)

It's hard for the shift forks to move on the shift drum without them.

 

So don't sweet it bro Just center the spring on the pins put it back together.

Posted

Oilsmoke,

 

You are starting to scare me now :)

 

I too am building a 12 port stroker...I hope I don't strip anything :(

 

What was the route cause of your failed 2nd gear? I tried to look my tranny over, but didn't notice anything...

 

I hope your bike is running well now :dance:

 

Thanks,

T :whoa:

Posted

10 year old gear. I bought a 2001 tranny and replace whole thing.

Bike is running good.I am still fat on jetting tho. Torquey SOB.

Posted (edited)

OILSMOKE,

 

HMMMMM...

 

Getting more and more worried by the moment (My tranny is stock I am sure (from 93'), so I am wondering if it is worth the upgrade now?

 

If so, should I check dealership, or would you trust a tranny off ebay or HQ?

 

Another thing...did you put the rubber washer and regular washer on the shifter like I have read on the HQ? If so, do you have pics?

 

BTW: Where do you ride? And torque....does it rip like many people say? I am so excited to get mine together, but I want to make sure it is done right the first time. Got any pics of your bike?

 

L8tr,

T :whoa:

Edited by troyminator

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