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Posted (edited)

well ill try to make this short.bought a dyna fs box last month,got the wrong year so i bought a wiring harness to match.hooked it all up started and died,every time,with the ocasional back fire.ok,attributed it to the parking brake switch that my bike didnt have but the newer wiring harness did.played with the wiring still no luck got fed up,sent it back.meanwhile i hooked the original harness up with the stock cdi,fired up with a few kicks,so i know it wasnt the bike.now the fucked up part,i talked to a guy at dyna told him i bought the wrong year box and couldnt get it to run even with the correct harness.so they were nice enough to send me the correct year.i tought my worries were over.got the new box today,and still the same fucking thing,starts every time but only climbs up to like 2500 rpm and dies.every time.its driving me nuts.does anyone have an answer to my problem.thanks scott

Edited by superchicken
Posted (edited)

Cant help you, but I have a dyna on my 95 and it works great. Sounds like your only hope lies w/ a Dyna person.

Edited by H300F
Posted

You running stock coil and stock timing? You have BR8ES plugs in (Yes it does make a diffrence) The brown and blue wires don't get connected unless your running a tach or some other rpm monitering device.

Posted

sadly to say yes it does run with the stock cdi box,yes i do have resistor plugs in it and the stock timing.i was on the timing issue,i thought the first go round with my problem was that it may have a degree key in it,wasnt able to check the timing lent my light to a buddy,but check it last night and it was right on the money.changed the stator back to my old one stll the same.and on the dyna tech help,the head tech scott told me that some times from the facorty there boxes get sent out with two wires in the wrong position,take them out of the connector,reposision them and it should run.NO help.im really fed up with this box 300$ dollars and its turning into a paperweight

Posted

Exactly how long does it run? Does it run for just a second, then shut off? Or does it continue trying to run, and just not idle?

 

Did you check your key switch wiring?

Brad

Posted

Superchicken, do the colors match at the CDI connectors? Like, on the wiring harness side are they the same as on the CDI side (of the Dyna; color and location)? Sounds like your electrical system is all fine except for the Dyna.

 

I run a Dyna and have never had any problems, but it WILL try to run for a sec if you have the kill switch "off" (or key switch), kinda sounds like that's what yours is doing. BUT if it runs fine with the stocker, it could just be as Scott told you; a wire out of place in the connector. If so, it's very easy to remove the terminals from the connector and put 'em in the right location, you just need to use a small pick and push in the plastic tab that holds the terminal in place. The alternative may be that the box is bad (hope not). Good luck.

Posted

Don't want to sound like a jackass here, but owell...not sure how those boxes work, but do you have your TORRS disconnected? doesn't really explain why it'd work with a stock cdi, but does the stock cdi work in conjunction with the TORRS?...only reason I ask. ;)

Posted (edited)

 

Superchicken, do the colors match at the CDI connectors?  Like, on the wiring harness side are they the same as on the CDI side (of the Dyna; color and location)?  Sounds like your electrical system is all fine except for the Dyna.

 

The colors on the dyna wiring harness will not match the stock harness. The wiring swap Scott was talking about changes the polarity of the charging system signal from the stator. It is not unusual for this signal to be 180 degrees out of phase on an aftermarket stator, and if its out of phase, the bike will run rough, not idle or idle poorly, and be harder to kick start. If it's a wiring problem with the key switch, it will run for a second like Ben pointed out, then die.

 

If it isn't the electrical system that is the problem, I would suspect jetting. The odds of getting not one, but two bad banshee CDIs is pretty remote. Dynatek will test a box under warranty for you, but I would suggest going through the rest of the wiring first before doing sending it in.

 

Brad

Edited by bradrs
Posted

well thanx every one for replying,ive checked the wiring to the kill switch it was fine tors is disconected the only solid proof that something is wrong,is that the coil has no primary resisistance.so it seems to me the coils grounding out.got a new one comeing soon.does anyone know the best curve for 145lb.s of compression.dont want to get any dentonation.thanx scott banghead

Posted

well i finally have good news,it turned out to be the coil.for some strange reason it would run with the stock cdi,but not with the dyna fs.the stocker must be able to work with less resistance across the primarys,and the dyna must just grounds out.took it for a spin last night noticed alot more bottom end.cant really say it its all because of the dyna box or the complete new electrical system thats in her

Posted

Right on superchicken, good to hear you got her going. As you are probably aware, the compression reading won't be an accurate reflection of your actual compression ratio, which is what dictates the need for higher octane fuel (or less timing advance) to combat detonation. 145 on stock porting should be no problem with the preprogrammed curves, but if it's ported be careful. Experiment with different curves and see what works best with your pipe/motor combination.

 

Now if I could just get bradrs to make me a CDI box for my RZ...

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