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Fmf Vs Cheetah


jiffy

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I am interested in getting a big bore with powervalves and was wondering which one is better, I was Going to run one of the kits with A 4mm stroker, Paul Turner High rev Pipes, and a 485cc kit.

 

All Opinions are needed. I would like to hear from a lot of different Companies in their choices. :cheers:

 

 

 

Jeff :whoa:

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FMF used to advertise T-REX cylinders as their own and maybe they still do im not too sure...

 

I was Going to run one of the kits with A 4mm stroker, Paul Turner High rev Pipes, and a 485cc kit.

 

Forget about the Paul Turner pipes, you would choke this engine to death with these pipes and most probably have overheating problems.Take it for what its worth but if you are planning on building an engine with close to 500CCs, run at least a 7mm stroker crank.

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Now That I know Im retarded, I will Get CpI's. I already Have A 4mm Crank so I dont want to run a 7mm. I will be Mostly just play riding. Some Drag racing with freinds. I was just wonderin which was the bigger bang for the Buck because Im only 18 And want one OF the fastest bikes in my town.

:whoa:

I did notice that it seems that cheetah cylinders have thicker side walls and have a few more ports. I dont really know a lot. But I know the basics. Any more info or If you feel the need to rip on me Positvely or negatively. Please do. I enjoy hearing everyones input. :)

 

Thanks

 

:headbang:

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t-rex and cheetahs are both good. t-rex is a sleeve style and cheetah is nikacil (sp).

Just to clear this up, the Cheetah's are the sleeve type, T-Rex's can be bored just like stock banshee cyls.

 

My engine guy tells me that for just bolt on and go power the cheetahs are ok. He builds a lot of T-Rex motors and likes them for everything from trail motors to big stroke applications. Cheetahs aparently have some un-necessary water jacketing around the exhaust ports, an extra transfer port ( makes less intake velocity), weak head design compared to the T-Rex, and a much smaller powervale than the T-Rex. He thinks the T-Rex is more receptive to porting ( from trail to dune to drag) and in big horse power applications ( over 110 HP) thay are a stronger application, the water jackets around the exhaust cost material thus weakening the cylinder ( K&T thinks tha same thing, call them and ask them if they are still running Cheetahs, then ask them why not). I personally do not have any first hand experience with either brand, was just trying to relay some information to you guys. I do know that I saw a T-Rex cylindered 10mm stroker on booze run olds (Glamis) at 82mph over Easter weekend. If you want more information call Kevin @ Custom Creations ATV (909) 797-1585, or you can E-mail him through his weak web site http://www.customcreationsatv.com

Edited by DUNEDEMON
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Just to clear this up, the Cheetah's are the sleeve type, T-Rex's can be bored just like stock banshee cyls.

 

Actually yes the T-REX can be bored like stock cylinders and they are the "sleeve type" using steel sleeves while the Cheetahs are nikasil plated therefore cant be bored without being replated afterwards.

 

Some shops swear by the Cheetah set up while others will only work with T-REX,Superior Sleeves,Twister cylinders etc. cylinders, it is only a matter of preferences since none of those set ups have proven to be a clear winner over the others so far...

 

I did notice that it seems that cheetah cylinders have thicker side walls and have a few more ports.

 

The ports you are referring to are the transfer ports,Cheetah cylinders have 6 while T-REX cylinders have 4.

 

I was just wonderin which was the bigger bang for the Buck because Im only 18 And want one OF the fastest bikes in my town.

 

For your type of riding the "bigger bang for the buck" is without a dought the Cheetah set up, the other cylinders will have to be ported just to match what the Cheetahs will give you powerwise right out of the box.Now if you were building a drag race only bike things could be different,the brand of cylinders wouldnt matter as much as who would set them up.

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