Engine Case Dowel Pins

[Incognito485]

  Has anyone successfully pulled a stuck dowel pin out without taking the stud out? I'm a fan of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but this thing has been FUBAR'ed by the previous owner and has to come out because the cylinder won't seat without it being replaced. I dread breaking a stud off in the case.

[registered user]

how bad is it fubared ? maybe u can dress it up good enuff to work. otherwise you probly have to get the stud out very carefully .  good luck. when they break its a mother getting it out

[n2otoofast4u]

Good prep on the stud, direct pressure. Don’t be scared.

[Incognito485]

It's somehow split down the middle on one end, like someone tried to get it out prior to me.  I tried shaping it enough to get a socket on it to round it out.  No dice.

 

By prepping, are you recommending penetrating oil and heat?

[registered user]

if the dowel is to mangled then try penetrating oil for a day or 2. this stud remover works fairly good. grip the stud low as possible https://www.jbtools.com/titan-tools-16023-3-8-drive-stud-extractor/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8YOLz6_W7AIVDNvACh0NpQwBEAQYASABEgLwjvD_BwE

hopefully u dont shear the stud or pull the case threads. heat may help but i wouldnt get crazy with it

[Incognito485]

Thanks, I'll give it a try this weekend.

[n2otoofast4u]

A good extractor, oil a few times, freeze, flash heat, cut stud off as low as you can and still use extractor.

[Incognito485]

Alright, I ended up ordering a new case dowel and test fitted it with the cylinder off.  The dowel would not go into the cylinder hole (not case hole), which was obviously a machining error. So, I rounded out the not so great dowel pin, I drilled out the hole a bit and it  went on.  All good until I go to start it, and it won't light up.  I've got compression (120 in both cylinders), spark, and fuel, and the spark plugs are dry.  In the end I sprayed some starting fluid in and it kicked off real quick, I was able to get it running but it was idling way too high and eventually would run up to the point where I would have to kill it (with pulling the plugs no less, different story). I knew going into this to already be prepared for that, and I was.  The idle screws had no effect on the idle either.  I checked the reeds and they looked fine, but I'm going to pull them and re-check.  The carbs are going to be pulled and thoroughly cleaned.  I'm thinking massive air leak right now, then carb or both.  When I get more down time I'm gonna get back to it, but I gotta fix the kill switch issues so......

I must have pulled a wire somewhere because I'm pretty sure it worked before.  Anyway, I was thinking about just buying a new wire harness and going that route sine it is a mess.  I contacted Corey from Kustom Koncepts but haven't heard back.  Is there any big drawback from buying a stock oem style harness and leaving the crap you don't need unplugged, or is it better to get one custom made?  Is it that big of a headache dealing with an oem style harness when I have TORS delete, no KEY, and Parking brake delete?  Thanks for any input.  I wish I had more time to run through the problems right now, but that's life.

Edited November 2, 2020 by Incognito485

[registered user]

the cyl dowel holes could be .001 to small. i just roll up some 180grit sand paper like a sleeping bag and spin it in the hole

[375hp banshees]

Do a leakdown test?

I think Corey passed away or something happened.

every bodys using  South Texas banshee /  kevin galindo i think

[Incognito485]

1 hour ago, 375hp banshees said:

Do a leakdown test?

I think Corey passed away or something happened.

every bodys using  South Texas banshee /  kevin galindo i think

Man, I hate to hear that. Sounded like a good dude.

[n2otoofast4u]

Do a leakdown test?
I think Corey passed away or something happened.
every bodys using  South Texas banshee /  kevin galindo i think

No shit? That guy kinda had a niche in this fucked up industry, and seemed to be reliable. RIP Corey.