Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Incognito485's Achievements

HQ Noob

HQ Noob (1/5)



  1. Man, I hate to hear that. Sounded like a good dude.
  2. Alright, I ended up ordering a new case dowel and test fitted it with the cylinder off. The dowel would not go into the cylinder hole (not case hole), which was obviously a machining error. So, I rounded out the not so great dowel pin, I drilled out the hole a bit and it went on. All good until I go to start it, and it won't light up. I've got compression (120 in both cylinders), spark, and fuel, and the spark plugs are dry. In the end I sprayed some starting fluid in and it kicked off real quick, I was able to get it running but it was idling way too high and eventually would run up to the point where I would have to kill it (with pulling the plugs no less, different story). I knew going into this to already be prepared for that, and I was. The idle screws had no effect on the idle either. I checked the reeds and they looked fine, but I'm going to pull them and re-check. The carbs are going to be pulled and thoroughly cleaned. I'm thinking massive air leak right now, then carb or both. When I get more down time I'm gonna get back to it, but I gotta fix the kill switch issues so...... I must have pulled a wire somewhere because I'm pretty sure it worked before. Anyway, I was thinking about just buying a new wire harness and going that route sine it is a mess. I contacted Corey from Kustom Koncepts but haven't heard back. Is there any big drawback from buying a stock oem style harness and leaving the crap you don't need unplugged, or is it better to get one custom made? Is it that big of a headache dealing with an oem style harness when I have TORS delete, no KEY, and Parking brake delete? Thanks for any input. I wish I had more time to run through the problems right now, but that's life.
  3. It's somehow split down the middle on one end, like someone tried to get it out prior to me. I tried shaping it enough to get a socket on it to round it out. No dice. By prepping, are you recommending penetrating oil and heat?
  4. Has anyone successfully pulled a stuck dowel pin out without taking the stud out? I'm a fan of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but this thing has been FUBAR'ed by the previous owner and has to come out because the cylinder won't seat without it being replaced. I dread breaking a stud off in the case.
  5. Hi, after searching off and on for a few years I finally decided to look into buying a Banshee. Long story short I found a guy selling a 96' and we came to an agreement, which I thought was reasonable considering the issues I observed. I did a compression test on the engine, and came out with 125 PSI on the left cylinder, and 135 on the right. Rear brakes need a little work, but the front brakes work, and it runs and drives. The body overall looks pretty straight, He did point out that coolant was leaking from the seam on the top of the head (right side), which I immediately figured was at minimum a head gasket issue. After kicking the bike a few times you could see a noticeable amount of coolant leaking from that seam. Fast forward- Decided to tear down the bike a bit and work on it when I get time. Once I got the gas tank off I looked at the cylinder head and noticed that one of the nuts on the head (where leak is) was larger than the other. Cue the punch in the gut. Right then and there I knew someone had performed hack job. I pulled the head off and saw that the head, gasket and stud hole had been "opened up" quite a bit, and someone jammed what appeared to be gasket maker in there to try and make it seal (SMH). The bolt was obviously didn't fit, and was glued in with silicone. Anyway, the stock studs do fit in the larger hole, and it appears that just the top of the hole is opened up. It looks like it got loose and just moved around in a circle. Even though it screws in, there is quite a gap where the stud meets the head. I also saw some scratches on the dome and top of the piston (left side 125 PSI, detonation?). So, the obvious solution at the time of putting a new gasket and and calling it good is out the window. Given that, I want to know what you guys think on trying to salvage the cylinders by re-tapping and putting a new stud in, or just scrapping the cylinders and buying new ones. And in that case what are most people's recommendations. I know there are options out there, but wanted some feedback from you guys. Sorry for the long post, now its time to drown myself in some adult beverages. I tried to attach photos but they are too big?
  • Create New...