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Timing and idle screw


twoduce
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Just bought my first shee couple weeks ago, run great at initial purchase, got her home and went out that weekend riding some trails to get a little wind time which in turn lasted less then 30 min.

Now to the main issues at hand, got her back home and started trouble shooting her, pulled stator cover off and about a cup or 2 of water poured out, trust me was not happy at this point. So in the end replaced flywheel, stator, cdi, and coil, put it all back together and set timing and everything back to how it was before issue, rode her all that weekend with out an issue and dang she is crazy scary fast. Now upon reading a few forums about the shee I'm getting a little skittish about running her anymore till I know for a fact as to why my timing needs to be set at +8° and the idle screw turned out 5 1/2 turns.                                     I have found out there are mods done to her, gots 34mm keihin carbs, cool heads by pro design, cpi racing pipes, was told it's dune ported and bord but how far I don't know, and not sure if stroked or not but said something about +4.          Any help greatly appreciated before I get stuck dumping more $$$ in her instead of doing preventive maintenance. 

Thanks greatly in advance 

 

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The idle screws i wouldnt worry about, you said 34mm keihin carbs, if thats correct, those are PJ carbs and they adjust by turning the choke to the R or L.  Just get a carb sync tool and make sure you carbs are syncd up correctly.  Then id test compression and see where your compression is at.  What fuel are you currently running? plus 5-6 timing is pretty normal higher compression and race fuel setup you can usually do more timing. 

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The carbs say pwk on them, not sure if that helps plus the both carbs each have a choke on the idle screw side, there the ones you pull up not out to the side. For fuel I've been running 91 pump fuel mixed 32:1, it's what the previous owner said he was running. That's why I'm a lot concerned about the +8° timing specially since it's only had pump fuel running threw it stated from previous owner.

 

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yeah the number of turns it takes to get it where its normal might vary for engine to engine.  Id be more concerned with the 91 and plus 8 timing, check compression and see where you are at, but 93 oct. and plus 4-6 timing is usually safe for pump gas motors. 

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I'll definitely check compression, and start running 93 octane from pump. Was thinking about retarding the timing down to +4° or maby +5° and see what happens. Just bugs me to know end not knowing exactly what all has been moded and to what extent. Might have to strip it down do measurements and go from there.

 

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once you pull the head and intakes you should have a good idea of whats been done.  It really wouldnt be much work to take the cylinders off to be honest.  that way you will find out if it has some port work done etc.  a compression test should be a good indicator of whats going on though, and then you can just retard timing and make sure jetting is good, then just run it till it wears out and then upgrade

Edited by Ayesully810
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Ya I'm going to check out the plugs and do a compression test on it tomorrow, hopefully the compression checks good with no leak down but don't have much faith in the plugs being good, last time I checked them they were a little wet and had some carbon buildup but that was when the stator an flywheel went out on it due to water in the stator area. 

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No point in running over 7* unless your drag racing. Pump gas I wouldnt go over 5, 6.    Also, if you are comfortable with tearing it apart,  we can get some measurements from a micrometer and pics of porting, get a good idea on what's been done to it so you know.  

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A little update on this crazy unknown banshee, ok pulled plugs didn't quite look like carbon build up, more of a burnt look but not completely black more like a dark brown and they were dry. Stuck a camera into each cylinder and all looked good, didn't see any scaring, pitting, burn marks, or carbon. Compression test showed 175 psi in both cylinders with 0 leak down for 6 min. Did the timing trial and retarded it back to +5° from +8° not good, lost a lot  of power, throttle response was horrible, if stabbed the throttle it bogged out and almost died, put it back at +8° and it's back to crazy scary fast and hard to hang onto when going threw the gears and it's not slow shifting, you got to be on the ball because it tops out in rpms threw each gear pretty quick. Guess I'll leave it alone and run it like is and check the plugs at the end of each day of riding and stick the camera in each cylinder every now an then to see if any thing is changing. 

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