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Dynatek FS with Timng Plate


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Ive read previous discussions on this, but am getting mixed answers. I am currently building a 96 Shee, i have an adjustable timing plate, and Dynatek FS with curve selector switch set to stock. I am wanting to know if when the dynatek curve switch is set to stock, does it still add timing on a default dynatek curve? Or does it run off the factory curve? (Doubt it). Ive read, and been told both ways, and i need to know for sure.  Im wanting to run +4 on the plate with the dynatek at stock. But if it already adds timing then i will leave plate at stock. Im running factory head, stock bore and stroke so compression will be like a stock shee. Running 93 octane pump gas. Wiseco pro-lite pistons, mild clean up port job, pro circuit platinum exhaust, 6" pod filters, Vforce4 reed cages, stock carbs bored to 28mm, should run pretty decent. Just dont want to add so much timing it blows up on pump gas. I got it cheap because i bought it with a rod thru the cases, they were running +5 at the plate with the dynatek on stock, but not sure what octane they were running. 

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If you put the timing plate at 4 degrees then it is the same as adding 4 degrees to the entire timing curve.

Thus, stock curve + 4 degrees on plate= stock curve+4 degrees across the entire curve.

 

Honestly, I would put the timing plate at 0 and put the ignition on curve 3.

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Bike already came with the dynatek, so i dont know if someone has messed with the curve settings on the box? And honestly am really considering selling the dynatek and just getting a stock cdi so i didnt have to sorry about it. Some say the stock setting is like having a factory cdi, then others say the it still adds some timing. 

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I understand +4 at the plate is +4 across the entire curve, and i also understand a custom curve is proly alot better. But im not very experienced with banshees, and do not have the stuff to custom create a timing curve, and dont know whats been programmed to this cdi as it was already installed on the bike. I just dont want to blow this thing up. Im just building a bike to hall ass down the street with and rip my 30 acres of trails to shreds. So squeezing the absolute peak hp out of this thing on a dyno is not needed here. 

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Dyna has there graph showing that the factory curve starts at 16*, ramps to 22* at about 3500rpm,  and drops to a final of around 13* @ 10,000rpm. The graph you posted the picture of shows the factory curve as the same, only showing a final of 9* at 10,000rpm. Which is correct? Also, how do i know that my dynatek box curves are as the graph shows and has not been re programmed by somebody? 

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Thata what i thought. This motor already blew before i got it, snapped left rod in half and sent it thru top and bottom cases. No signs or runnin lean or wrong mixture, leads me to believe they were screwing with wrong octane, too high rpm's, and way too much timing. So i dont know if its from someone who was messing with the box programs or what not. Plate was set around +5 

Edited by Wreckless_Rider
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Ditch the Dyna for OEM and a plate. You can do severe damage running a plate with advance and an advance curve at the same time. It's just way to much timing. You could run your plate at Zero and let the Dyna do it all, but with out the software and a lap top, you have no way of knowing what the curves are.  Dynas certainly have their place, but it's on race bikes only when someone is able to spend the hours on a Dyno getting it programmed. 

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