sleeper06 Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Prob should have just called fast racing like I suggested, none of this nonsense would be necessary, you'd be opening a box Monday, if you can't get him let me know I'll get him 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgehanger Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 You can use the stock adjuster screw from the OEM one you have now. Just take it out and thread it in the pancake bearing but, sometimes the stock screw can come up a little short and not adjust just right which is why chariot is better because it comes with a longer one. You can make the stock one work though you might have to flip the pancake bearing around the other way to have enough thread on the adjuster screw to get the lock nut on depending on how long the little billet part is. I put a little blue Loctite on the screw when I do it because I have seen them come off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgehanger Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 BTW it's Cascade that makes the pancake bearing with the longer adjustment screw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 But which is easier to fix. A broken ball or a welded one?I had one come apart. I couldn't account for all fragments, so I tore it all down anyway. I just don't like the idea of pieces floating around in the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Prob should have just called fast racing like I suggested, none of this nonsense would be necessary, you'd be opening a box Monday, if you can't get him let me know I'll get him Well I called a few places and this fella called back first. Explained what I needed and seemed legit. $230 ready to bolt on wasn't bad either. Just gotta figure out some new gaskets and build a leak down tester to use (which luckily I have all the parts I use to pressure test the tanks I build laying around). So hopefully next by the middle of next week - I'll be back in the saddle for another 11 seconds aka two pump chump Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Alright last question - what's the best 34/35mm carbs I can slap on this motor I won't have to mess with again for a little while anyway ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 These old Mikuni VM34 look like a POS the way the floats slide up and down on that needle. Seems to me it would get jammed up and run the carb out of fuel easily and that obviously ain't what I'm after haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Just trying to figure out anything and everything that could have caused my malfunction. Just never had this kind of problem on outboards. Ever Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Something like these ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 I know a guy that has some 35 mm PWKs. I sold him some 39 mm alky carbs so I'm sure he'd sell the gas 35s. There are a few carbs where the floats are on pins like that. Lectron and Mikuni TMs. Both good carbs. Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 I know a guy that has some 35 mm PWKs. I sold him some 39 mm alky carbs so I'm sure he'd sell the gas 35s. Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk Wanting some brand new ones I don't have to do anything to really besides jetting maybe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 I may just clean these VM34 up real good and go through them with a fine tooth comb but man they were spotless and the overall shape of the carbs is great compared to some stuff I've seen. The cables aren't as tight in the top as I'd like but that's what the rubber boot is for I'm imagining Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Depending on all the mods, 35's may be a bit much on there. But if you intend to keep modding it, go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Depending on all the mods, 35's may be a bit much on there. But if you intend to keep modding it, go for it. Let me see if I have some port pics. It's bored to 66.5, ported, gonna have a 21cc dome Noss head, and CPI pipes. here's to the top of the exhaust port Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted April 15, 2017 Report Share Posted April 15, 2017 Run 'em! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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