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Posted

Ok so I recently went in and put in a pancake bearing and rebuilt my water pump (billet impeller, o-rings, bearing) and changed trans fluid while I was there. Oh and my factory impeller already had cracks on it where shaft met impeller!!!! Glad I changed it when I did!

 

Here's the dilemma the guy I bought the bike from was running amsoil 10/30 or 40 synthetic m/c oil for wet clutches. Anyway I was wondering if I can just change the fluid to let's say (and dare I say) type f atf? Or am I better if buying new fibers and just soaking them in the new fluid that I plan on running?

 

Thanks amigos

Posted

Type f will glaze your plates tho if not changed after a hard ride. I use 20-50 motorcycle oil it says made for wet clutches so make sure you check that. But if you wanna run some good stuff get honda 85w gear saver

Posted

You guys dont know what you are missing by not using oil instead of type f. I will never switch back to atf after running quite a while with $14 a gallon Rotella diesel oil from oreilly or walmart. Better clutch and transmission feel, much less creeping when dragracing as well as easier to get into gear or neutral when warmed up. Much less shift fork wear and the clutch lasts and holds just fine. . All the motorcycle oils or gear savers work well too. 125hp will hold with a stock 7 plate setup and a slingshot lockup under the stock cover.

Posted (edited)

I have no problems clutching or shifting gears with ATF, but if I wasn't a cheap ass I'd run belray gear saver

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by willaduncan
Posted

The rotella we use is just the white jug truck or car oil. I dont remember the weight. Much hetter fork wear on overrides. With the springs setup on the duneables in my writeup on spring balancing and adjustment fork wear is nearly non existent.

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