bendog Posted March 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Amazing! Way crappy quality control. Kinda interesting though. Thanks a bunch. I really appreciate the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendog Posted March 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Yep, horizontal hole measures out perfect. Just the vertical hole needs drilled. Thanks again! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Well I know I learned something new tonight. Cool 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendog Posted March 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Superstar badass Banshee tuner right there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendog Posted March 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Amazing to me. Some one (likely lots of "someones") rode this banshee for TWENTY SIX YEARS, and never thought it was a slow warmer upper? no one looked at, or cleaned the carbs? What, pray tell, would the choke tube be there for? Merely to cap off the left carb choke function? Nothing for the right carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02_twin Posted April 3, 2015 Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 Hey people, new to this site. Been reading it from time to time. I just picked up an 02 right before christmas and have been basically restoring it. It was mainly in stock condition but a lot of stuff had been deleted and the wiring was screwed. Overall it was still in pretty good shape for the year though, just kinda worn and let go and worked on by anyone with pliers and a bolt box. Anyway, this thread prompted me to sign up because every since I had this bike it's been hell to start after it had been sitting a few days. I finally figured out that I could start it by rocking it side to side first and then repeating when it started to die. This was with the choke knob pulled. There were a lot of repairs made in the process, but the latest discovery I made was while cleaning the carbs that neither of my float bowls had a ball plug on the side opposite the bowl drain pipe but there were passages cast into it. So I began tracing the choke circuit and began to realize that the bowl of the carb with the choker must be missing a passage way. So I began to look on ebay at people who had stock carbs for sale to see if my hunch was correct. Sure enough, on the ads that had good enough pictures to see, the choker carb bowl had a ball plug at the very bottom on the outside of the bowl and the non choker didn't. This makes perfect sense to me. If the pick up tube from the choker circuit can't draw fuel from the bowl, it's never going to work right. I think this is why it would run for about 5 seconds then stop if I didn't keep rocking it side to side. I think what was happening was the rocking action must have been allowing enough fuel to spill into the pickup tube passage way to make things happen but was quickly used up and only by rocking the machine again would it fill the tube up again. With the passage way there, the choke circuit can continuously draw from the bowl till the choke is closed. So in essence what I had was a right side float bowl on each carb. Well, I drilled a hole to connect the pickup hole with inlet hole and then drill and tapped for a set screw. Which I loctited in place. I am hoping this cures my cold starting problem as it should allow enough fuel to richen both carbs. I don't see the need to connect the same passage on the right carb bowl because it looks to me like the choke inlet circuit on the right carb goes right to the main bore of the carb. Plus, all of the pairs I have seen for sale have all had just the choker carb bowl drilled and plugged. We'll see... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendog Posted April 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 Carb problems! I hope someone helps you out on your arrangement. I'm still fighting with mine. I pressure tested, compression tested and checked the squish clearance today. All checked out good, so I decided to make sure the carb slides close fully, then sinc the opening of the slides, in the process, of removing the idle screws, out of the left carb came a steel sleeve that someone had put in after presumably stripping the idle screw threads. The idle screw threads are an odd ball size, so I'm sure this sleeve isn't threaded to match. The idle screw is ruined, so I ordered 2 new ones, with the drill bit and tap to match 6mm x .75. I also ordered a copper sleeve, I'm planning on cutting threads into the outside of the copper sleeve to match the threads that some clown tapped into the carb, loctiting the sleeve into the carb, then tapping threads into the inner part of the sleeve to match the idle screw. Anyone have any better ideas? See any potential problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02_twin Posted April 3, 2015 Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 You know, I've seen just plain bare upper housings for sale on ebay. Or, I wonder if you could just drill and tap out to a bigger screw size and then bring the end of the new bigger screw down to what the end of your original screw was. I guess it depends on how much stock is left in the hole. You probably wouldn't want to go too thin with it. I know there isn't that much meat there to begin with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunes98 Posted April 3, 2015 Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 I'd just buy a new/used carb. Then you know it will be okay. It would suck to have a weekend trip ruined because something comes apart. I have a set of stock carbs laying around in my garage. I'd be willing to sell them, I have no idea what they are worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendog Posted April 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 PM sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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