Ndollar1 Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Ok so I just recently got done doing a restoration of sorts to the shee. I had the frame powder coated by Blake at prodigal sons,jds cdi relocater, and wiring harness modified by kompolsive components. I installed everything back together making sure to clean of a grounding spot where the coils mount to the frame. I also attached The lighting/ground wire to the coil mount bolts. I have no spark whatsoever. After reading on here I decided last night to relocate the ground to another spot on the frame as well as run an additional ground from the cylinder base but to the coil mount. I have ohmed the stator,key switch,ignition switch and checked continuity in the wiring to make sure it's not bad wiring. Last night I hooked a spark tested to the plug wire and the spark plug and would not get a spark when run switch was on but is it was off I would get a single spark on. The first kick nothing after. Can someone please point me in the right direction. I have tried everything that I hae read on here and that I know. I know it's suppose to be simple but it's kicking my ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Alright, every time I post this it seems to slow down the electrical threads. So here goes. Start with the most simple and cheap. Trouble shooting list: -Flywheel (no rattles good magnetically) -Flywheel key ( not sheared off or not advanced key with extra timing on plate) -Stator (ohmed and tried another good working stator of known working bike?) -Pick up and pick up gap (don't be afraid to file nubs) -Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through -Connectors cleaned and greased -New spark plugs -Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in -New plug boots -Ohmed and tried known coil -Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric -Harness ground cleaned up -Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted properly -Disconnected the tether switch -Test kill switch -Swap coil -Swap CDI -Swap stator Random stuff from electrical FAQ: At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run. You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails. your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul M Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 you sure you have a good clean surface where the ground wire mounts ? open up the kill switch and make sure its not corroded and shorting out . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul M Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 mount your ground wire directly to the frame ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ndollar1 Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Grounds are straight to bare steel. I've tested everything per the checklist on here that shows the ohms. The bike was torn down for 2 months it ran perfect when taken apart. The only things changed were what I have listed I never had to take off flywheel or stator. And I don't have extra parts to swap due to never needing them. I'm located in kcmo if someone is close I would pay to borrow parts or have someone lend a set of eyes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ndollar1 Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Yes I have tors deleted Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ndollar1 Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 That part I don't understand is I had a brief spark with the ignition turned off. If I turn it on and back off I can kick it and get a spark only once though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 unplug the key switch and connect those 2 wires, should be red/black and black. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 22, 2015 Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 I had a top end go. Fixed it within 3-4 days and went to fire it and had a no start issue. Stator was culprit even though it was fine less the last ride. It even ohmed fine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ndollar1 Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Unplugged the key switch and jumped it same result. I also ohmed the key to double check. I really didn't want to go ordering more parts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ndollar1 Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Unplugged the key switch and jumped it same result. I also ohmed the key to double check. I really didn't want to go ordering more parts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slobanshee Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 I use Corey's harnesses also. One I got had me chasing all the stuff you are. Wound up being one of the connectors for the cdi. When I plugged it in the pin slid up and didn't make good contact. Couldn't tell by looking cause how plugs made He sent me parrs to fix it free too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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