trickedcarbine Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Says no stud removal, and certainly doesn't say anything about using oem suzuki studs. Again, my situation was different as it is the superduty head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennett131 Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 Yes, but when you said about using oem suzuki studs you didn't specify as to which head you were referring to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 oem suzuki studs?? like the staggerd size studs? ha ha. are they 10mm into the cyl and then 8mm towards the head? or 8mm in cyl and 6mm out to head ( yikes) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheesfast Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 sent a PM... no response yet.. but dont really see him on here that often.. so well see... I didnt remove any studs... I only turned 2 of them 1/4 turn or so when I did.. the head dropped down no prob... I do think the head needs to be PERFECTLY dropped straight down or else its going to be a bitch to put on / off... My head had so many studs binding it that it simply couldn't work without enlarging the holes. After that all was well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 oem suzuki studs?? like the staggerd size studs? ha ha. are they 10mm into the cyl and then 8mm towards the head? or 8mm in cyl and 6mm out to head ( yikes)Yep.... That's why I just quit arguing my side and chalked it to a loss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chariot Performance Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 I will do my best to answer here. We do make our holes a little bit smaller for our studs and if you have a stud that is not very straight you may need to turn it a bit or ream a hole on the head. With studs which are seated straight there should not be any issue. There may be in some cases for sure but that won't be the norm. Now why I make the holes a little smaller/tighter than others is this; the benefit outweighs the trouble some may have putting the head on. With all the high compression motors out there and so many not tuned real well head lifting is a problem for many people. It does not take a long time for lifting and slight moving to wear through the orings. Just lifting and not moving so much will help. It would take 1 minuite to put a slightly larger drill in my cnc to make the holes larger on each run but I believe the tighter fit is better. For those questioning the Suzuki studs comment; that used to be very common among builders. Some of them still use them and know exactly what ones to use. I have three shop banshees and all three of them uses Suzuki studs for the heads. Of course there are heads made by others that just slip on but at what cost? This is just my preference even though I have to answer concerns every now and then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Any boosted or high compression car guys ever have to ream their brand new AFR, Brodix, Trick Flow, or Dart heads before dropping them on? I've built a few car engines and never ran in to this even on raw heads. (This is a serious question, not trying to stir shit up) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chariot Performance Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 I don't know about the car heads and I may be wrong on my thoughts with our heads but that is just what I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 (edited) Any boosted or high compression car guys ever have to ream their brand new AFR, Brodix, Trick Flow, or Dart heads before dropping them on? I've built a few car engines and never ran in to this even on raw heads. i got my f150's 2v MMR(modular mustang racing) heads ported by a good shop across the country. I did this depsite people on forums bashing the vendor and how they lost money etc. I researched as best i could and made a decision with that knowledge. I didnt want to go aftermarket. Due to my ignorance, i paid a knowledgeable shop to do the work when i didnt know my ass from a hole in the ground. I rather spend more and have it done right. Otherwise, the only thing i could do is come on a forum and cry about how i wasted money due to my lack of knowledge when things go wrong. Worked out great for me. Keep in mind i went with a cookie cutter combo for my truck that is well known. I love it. I did the same for my banshee's engine. Sure did cost a lot, but the engine did great on the dyno and im looking forward to finishing the build in 2-4 months. Edited November 20, 2014 by RagunCajun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Always thought a tight hole was better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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