WINDYCITYJOHN400 Posted August 22, 2014 Report Posted August 22, 2014 Lmao how the fuck does that work? There's one stator and I thought both rods are on the same crank soooo Yamaha built the diagnostic timing light system right into the bikes lighting circuit. All full RPM if one light is dim you know you have a motor problem. (It's a warning system that is usually tied to the TORS system, but when you unplug the TORS….you lose the safety shut-off.) Test to see if you are getting 36.5 lumens out of either light. (Spec is 36.5 to 37.2) It's important to note if one is UNDER spec of if the other is just OVER spec. DON'T REV THE MOTOR TILL IT IS SOLVED! Just start the bike and let it idle while you test it. Quote
ETR174 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Report Posted August 22, 2014 Interwebz is all lies and propaganda.Evidently. Has a mix of bullshit too. Quote
sheerider11 Posted August 22, 2014 Report Posted August 22, 2014 Windy to save the day and ruin the fun. Now he's gonna go fix it the right way. 1 Quote
ETR174 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Report Posted August 22, 2014 Yamaha built the diagnostic timing light system right into the bikes lighting circuit. All full RPM if one light is dim you know you have a motor problem. (It's a warning system that is usually tied to the TORS system, but when you unplug the TORS….you lose the safety shut-off.) Test to see if you are getting 36.5 lumens out of either light. (Spec is 36.5 to 37.2) It's important to note if one is UNDER spec of if the other is just OVER spec. DON'T REV THE MOTOR TILL IT IS SOLVED! Just start the bike and let it idle while you test it. This may sounds stupid but how do you check the lumens? Quote
hp2000 Posted August 22, 2014 Report Posted August 22, 2014 This may sounds stupid but how do you check the lumens? It does. You need a sync tool for this method windy described. Quote
ETR174 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Report Posted August 22, 2014 (edited) Dude I'm sure its just the wiring. I think I fucked up and put the negative cable with the engine stop on 1 side of the connector and the headlight negative on the other side and its not contacting good enough. Edited August 22, 2014 by ETR174 Quote
ETR174 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Report Posted August 22, 2014 Well it never did this until I removed TORS and redid the wiring. Quote
WINDYCITYJOHN400 Posted August 22, 2014 Report Posted August 22, 2014 (edited) Dude I'm sure its just the wiring. I think I fucked up and put the negative cable with the engine stop on 1 side of the connector and the headlight negative on the other side and its not contacting good enough. I'm not spoon feeding you help anymore. I look up the specs on your timing diagnostic and post all the info for you and YOU wanna think it's a connector. Next you will want everyone to do the leg work to get you a lumen syncing tool. Just tape a flashlight to your hard and go ride. Wear some good shoes……you might be walking quite a bit. DON'T COME ON HERE ASKING FOR STATOR ADVICE WHEN THAT ISSUE COOKS THE IGNITION PULSE CHIP IN YOUR STATORS MODULATION RELAY! Edited August 22, 2014 by WINDYCITYJOHN400 Quote
WINDYCITYJOHN400 Posted August 22, 2014 Report Posted August 22, 2014 Well it never did this until I removed TORS and redid the wiring. What did I tell you????? When you remove the TORS….you LOSE THE SAFTEY SHUT-OFF! Quote
WINDYCITYJOHN400 Posted August 22, 2014 Report Posted August 22, 2014 Here! -> -> -> http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/321353991931?lpid=82 Get with the program son. Quote
ETR174 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Report Posted August 22, 2014 I'm not spoon feeding you help anymore. I look up the specs on your timing diagnostic and post all the info for you and YOU wanna think it's a connector. Next you will want everyone to do the leg work to get you a lumen syncing tool. Just tape a flashlight to your hard and go ride. Wear some good shoes……you might be walking quite a bit. DON'T COME ON HERE ASKING FOR STATOR ADVICE WHEN THAT ISSUE COOKS THE IGNITION PULSE CHIP IN YOUR STATORS MODULATION RELAY! Dude I'm not trying to piss you off. If I did have the lights on and I rode hard how long do you think it would take for the stator to go out? When I was at the dunes I had my lights on dim for at least 2 hours for a couple of days I was on it and there were no issues. I noticed the bulb was very dim but I needed the other bulb to see so I left it on. Quote
hp2000 Posted August 22, 2014 Report Posted August 22, 2014 Dude I'm not trying to piss you off. If I did have the lights on and I rode hard how long do you think it would take for the stator to go out? When I was at the dunes I had my lights on dim for at least 2 hours for a couple of days I was on it and there were no issues. I noticed the bulb was very dim but I needed the other bulb to see so I left it on.Dude you pissed off Windy and that's just plain wrong when he's trying to help you. Quote
rubberneck Posted August 22, 2014 Report Posted August 22, 2014 Shits probably already toast. Mixing up grounds is a bad idea because you never want to reverse the flow of electrons in a circuit as sensitive as a banshee wiring system. Personally i would run a separate ground for every device on the bike. Quote
ETR174 Posted August 22, 2014 Author Report Posted August 22, 2014 This is already turning out like the jet situation.... Quote
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