need tips for building a 4 mill

[Orris Edwards]

so my banshee is bored .40 over vforce4 reeds, tors removed, pro taper bars, full flight a arms +2 +1, +2 tusk axle, ambush rear tires and maxxis razor front tires. i am willing to build my bike as big as i can for flat track/ trail riding. I'm not too sure what i would have to do to change my cranks to 4 mill or 10 mill but thats something i would like to do. what I'm asking here is if i can have some help to understand what it consists of to do that. I'm also wondering what mm my jugs are, being bored .40 over. also i would like to know whats the difference between the 4 mill and 10 mill crank other then the obvious, would i have to change the domes and cool head? idk i need some clarification on the whole thing

[Pasi S.]

I´m pretty sure your bore is now 65mm. Stock bore is 64mm.

4mm stroker crank is cheaper than a 10mm stroker crank. 4mm crank is a "drop in" and anything more than that needs a case trenching.

 

Is your plan to go as big as you can, using your stock cylinders, or are you going to buy aftermarket cylinders?

[Dixie normus]

Tip: don't send to passion

[trickedcarbine]

^ word.

[bluebanshee98]

Aftermarket cylinders and 10mil crank. You'll be happy you took a big jump in the motor and won't wanna upgrade as quickly and do it all over again if you went 4 mil. I loved my 4 mil when I first had it but grew out of it quick and wanted more. 10mil as much better trq but does cost more

[trickedcarbine]

^ That, however it is probably better to learn on something like a hot 350 or 4mil motor. It needs to be said that it requires ALOT of knowledge to run a 10 mil. So study up, maybe buy a used set up here on HQ and put it together with fresh parts. I reccomend not buying anything totally assembled unless you know for sure where it's from, who built it, what it's built with, and how it's maintained. Lots of fresh motors from site sponsors that are documented in build threads tend to pop up. Or at least parts from them.