Dbro1216 Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 I have a 2002 banshee that I am rebuilding my first one recently melted a hole though a piston and melted aluminum in the cylinder so I had a buddy of mine say he had a shop that would do a bore and hone job for me cheap so I traded him some ice racing tires that I had and we called it good. He said the shop bored it out .10 and I bought a piston kit. Then he called me the other day and said that the shop had a problem with my cylinders. He said that they can not get two of the head studs out of the cylinder to hone them. Was told the cylinder were going to be put in an oven heated slowly and them try to get the studs out. My question is he bs'ing me and just has not done my cylinders or do you have to remove the studs to do a hone job. Thanks for the help just curious because it has been 6 or 7 weeks he has had my cylinders and still have not got them back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwistedMethods Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 I think bs doesn't take 6-7 weeks an as I know of wich might be wrong I don't think the head studs have to come out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250rbanshee Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 From what I understand the studs do need to be removed. I always remove mine before a bore and hone just to save time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwistedMethods Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 But 6-7 weeks no way should have been that long tho for a bore/hone Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250rbanshee Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 I agree...that's way too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 always pay last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted May 14, 2014 Report Share Posted May 14, 2014 You could have shipped them to me down state in Long Island and had them back in 2 what worries me is the real cheap part , I do remove studs to bore but some don't just depends on boring bar set up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toytech Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 with fiends like him you don't need any enimies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbro1216 Posted May 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Haha thanks for the replies. As far as the cheap part goes it was because I had some ice tires that I wasn't using to trade that why it was cheap to me. Called him yesterday he said should be done today. We will see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstaton1983 Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Now to figure out what caused the hole in the piston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigweav81 Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 wasn't aware you could bore, and hone nikasil cylinders. I noticed you said aluminum in your cylinders. x2 on finding the reason for failure, or it will be a repeat of what you already have at the moment. I learned my lesson with local shops boring, and honing cylinders. maybe a few good ones in your area, but none in mine. to me its bhq sponors, or bust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbro1216 Posted May 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 I believe the issue was a very lean mixture I have pro circuit pipes and boyseen reeds uni air filter. The carbs have 270 main 25 pilots which on the lean side to begin with and then it was 20 degrees outside in the winter so that leaned it out even more. I only had the banshee for about 1 week or two when this happened I traded a 426 dirt bike for it only had 500.00 into it. The guy who owned it before was running it with the idle screw out of the carb and could not figure out why it was not running good it was sucking air straight in the side of the carb. Also the rad reeds have dual stage pedals and one of the bottom reeds broke which would have been sucking air as well. Did not discover this until I took everything apart. Also the bike was a stock bore but had namura pistons in it and the stock head was pitted. Any input or disbelief of why this happened it greatly appreciated I'm fairly new to the banshee world. I own two this is my first rebuild of one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 Expensive learning curve on tuning and boreing. Probably should have been about 320-330 on main for those temps. A good machinist would have the pistons before boreing so they could be accurately honed for final size. Shop I use had RM cyl bored and shipped back 6 days from when I dropped it off, just saying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted May 16, 2014 Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 I wonder if this cheap bore and hone is going to include chamfering the ports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted May 17, 2014 Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 Expensive learning curve on tuning and boreing. Probably should have been about 320-330 on main for those temps. A good machinist would have the pistons before boreing so they could be accurately honed for final size. Shop I use had RM cyl bored and shipped back 6 days from when I dropped it off, just saying This is key......most don't realize it but there ARE differences in the same size pistons.......why do you think builders often bore/hone cylinders and send you the pistons marked RIGHT/LEFT. That is because they are bored specifically to the size that they measured the piston at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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