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Rear suspension setup for a 10 mil without a wheelie bar


danysbanshee

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Alright i was wondering i have a 10 mil cub with around 100 horse, my weight is 135 lbs with a +4 out the front from stock length, with +2 a arms. Also a jja 40mm drag axle an22x11x8 14 ripper. I run on pretty much hard packed dirt with mix of clay,I have a wheelie bar but would like to not have to use it. Using a shock is what id like to do(kinda like a hillshooter setup) but i don't really know as far as height from the bottom of my chassis to the ground what the height should be, not only  that but what kind of length swinger should be used so i don't have to use the training wheel... can anyone help me out on this ?

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I'd say at least a +12 with those tires. As far as I know as a basic rule of thumb you want the bottom of your chassis level with the ground. Sometimes a setup wants something a little different though. Other than giving you a general idea you'll have to tnt to figure out what it likes best. Also if you're not riding on support rough stuff I'd just get an adjustable strut.

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At anything past quarter throttle out of the hole I blister a 22x11x8 14 extreme with a +8 swinger an im still on the bar...the bike sits evenly level now. jus didn't know as far as riding in a dune what the normal height should be with the correct swing arm that will only pick up the front tires when i want it to... I drag race 300ft with it but would also like to ride it in the dunes tryin to find a happy medium.

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At anything past quarter throttle out of the hole I blister a 22x11x8 14 extreme with a +8 swinger an im still on the bar...the bike sits evenly level now. jus didn't know as far as riding in a dune what the normal height should be with the correct swing arm that will only pick up the front tires when i want it to... I drag race 300ft with it but would also like to ride it in the dunes tryin to find a happy medium.

Take the bike to whatever height is required to get the frame level yet give the swinger any where between 3-7* of angle. If the bike begins to just hook super aggressive to where you are lifting the front way up fix it with the clutch. In my opinion a chassis should be dialed to the point where it is violent enough to ruin parts or bog the motor. Then use the clutch to tame it out.
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Thanx for the helpful insite trickedcarbine ill have to try out your theory and see how it goes,but joshb since you think i dont know how to ride or what i run on bring your pretty little pony up an run that not your trap. Are track condition is like no other in the country so if you think you know come to NEORVCA at ossipee valley fair grounds,Hiram Maine an run what ya brung or :flush:

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Thanx for the helpful insite trickedcarbine ill have to try out your theory and see how it goes,but joshb since you think i dont know how to ride or what i run on bring your pretty little pony up an run that not your trap. Are track condition is like no other in the country so if you think you know come to NEORVCA at ossipee valley fair grounds,Hiram Maine an run what ya brung or :flush:

 

Ok for starters don't go getting overly defensive with site members who read your post and offer info. (Even if they are questioning your set-up)

Next, your asking for help and getting info from people including Josh. He didn't say you don't know how to ride…..He said once you get a couple adjustments made, learn how to ride the bike with that new set-up. (In other words…"Get Used To What It Likes")

Next….I love when people say "Our ride spot is unlike any other in the country"….How the fuck would you know that? You have a special dirt that's only in a 4 square mile area and NO OTHER dirt is even similar? If THAT is truly the case….NO input from anyone can help you.

Your looking for input from people who do this on a serious level and they a stumped by your use of your current set-up. Nobody called you out or bashed your choice in tire….it's just unconventional.

I personally would say that if your in  hard packed dirt/clay…then what is the point of a Ripper since you can't sink the whole paddle blade into the surface? I would think your just skimming the top of the surface with a big paddle. It's called too much tire and it makes launches overly aggressive and bogs motors requiring gearing to solve it. But your 130 and I'm 210…so if YOU feel it works for you…..Fine. Just don't get all Butt Hurt if people have a differing opinion. 

Trust me when I say……You were NOT shown any disrespect. But those who throw elbows on this site too easily get a quick lesson in unwanted negativity. LOL

 

Good luck with your changes. I prefer a bike without a bar if you can manage it too.

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