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single a arm


atcandbanshees

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I only run 120-140 psi in mine rides smooth and handles great. but i built it and thought about camber,caster and bumpsteer while laying it out.you gotta have functionality before looks. Most setups dont have enough castor and way to much bumpsteer because they dont mount the stem and tierods properly.

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what is a matter cam? not smart enough to make a single arm chassis have ride? you just tell guys to pump the shaws u? sounds like something a shit chassis builder would say. "it's how they're supose to work. why would they built them with suspension if it wasn't supose to move? oh and stop telling ppl to over inflate their shaws unless you're ready to pay the repair bill. straight from shaw " what idiot told you to put 1,500 psi in this low pressure piston shaw?" some guy on bhq i told him..... he said to tell you "thanks for the business" cam....

 

like i said in my first post.... get the tie rod to follow the angle of the arm and make sure the tow is set up right. i had a full 3" down and 3" up from loaded ride height without any bump-steer at 180psi not to mention when having travel you reduce the chances of something on a single arm breaking by removing the "shock" that happens from basicly rigid setups.

 

 

then again what do i know. i'm just some dumbass that has never set a bike up.

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what is a matter cam? not smart enough to make a single arm chassis have ride? you just tell guys to pump the shaws u? sounds like something a shit chassis builder would say. "it's how they're supose to work. why would they built them with suspension if it wasn't supose to move? oh and stop telling ppl to over inflate their shaws unless you're ready to pay the repair bill. straight from shaw " what idiot told you to put 1,500 psi in this low pressure piston shaw?" some guy on bhq i told him..... he said to tell you "thanks for the business" cam....

 

like i said in my first post.... get the tie rod to follow the angle of the arm and make sure the tow is set up right. i had a full 3" down and 3" up from loaded ride height without any bump-steer at 180psi not to mention when having travel you reduce the chances of something on a single arm breaking by removing the "shock" that happens from basicly rigid setups.

 

 

then again what do i know. i'm just some dumbass that has never set a bike up.

Wait... so you mean to say that generic hydraulic seals from Tractor Supply aren't the proper ones for Works shocks?

 

 

You don't say.

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I only run 120-140 psi in mine rides smooth and handles great. but i built it and thought about camber,caster and bumpsteer while laying it out.you gotta have functionality before looks. Most setups dont have enough castor and way to much bumpsteer because they dont mount the stem and tierods properly.

 

 

DING DING...... We have a winner.

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I only run 120-140 psi in mine rides smooth and handles great. but i built it and thought about camber,caster and bumpsteer while laying it out.you gotta have functionality before looks. Most setups dont have enough castor and way to much bumpsteer because they dont mount the stem and tierods properly.

yup i was gonna say not enough castor...

mark

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Nothing wrong with single a-arm setups. I've been radared on the dunes at 90+ mph numerous times with no wobble.. Dont be so quick to blame it on the builder.. One thing you didn't clarify is if its a brand new chassis?? If it is, after it left the builder was it put together properly? If its not brand new, did it just start magically happening?? If its a reputable builder then you need to contact them and see what their take is. Chances are your front end flux capacitor is out of alignment.

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Can you guys break this down for a retarded like me? Phelps I'm trying to understand.

it's very simple if you don't over think it. my art skills suck or i would attempt a drawing. the closer the mounting point of the steering stem is to the mounting point of the the arms at the center of the frame and the closer the tie rods follow the arms the less bump steer as the suspension moves. also the closer to the same length the better if the mounting points are the same, the lengths are the same and they are within a inch away from each other you would never get bump steer within a 8" travel setup. i will look for a pic that might help

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