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T rex cylinders


4mildkue

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yes its possible. big HP number's AND rideablilty are easily dooable with a PV motor.. IF its built right.. and thats a BIG if..

 

i run a 535 cheetah and a 485 cheeta both PV motors and after setting them up to what i felt was right. they will pull my 290lb ass right out the hole. and run like no other.. at the HQ ride i rember out launching pretty much any bike there. and i'm one fat ass.

 

kearns t-rex i feel there is more in it and some more chassis tunning and some work with the pv's to make them actually do what they were designed to do is going to make some big changes..

 

i am personally thinking of trying to find a stock stroke t-rex casting and resleeve it to a very large bore. like 76mm or possibly bigger.. just curious....

 

cub's can make big HP numbers but to do that you have to narrow the Powerband up SOO much they will never pull themselves worth a crap. OR be soo pipey that if you miss a shift or eat a few cheese burgers they will be boooogggggomatics

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A supercub was my first choice but I thought I could get more hp out of a Trex either way it goes they will have 72mm pistons in them but I've saw a 4mil Trex run and it was very impressive and I got a good deal on the cylinders so I just want to see what kinda feed back I could get from the veterans but if I don't like them they will come off in hurry!!! I just was trying to get to the biggest 4mil without going to a dm

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Gotmils,

I am not on here often but the T-Rex cylinder can be ported to be a very competitive motor. The most important thing is that is has more torque and a wider powerband. With the proper gearing and exhaust that motor will accelerate harder than a motor that produces more peak HP with a narrower powerband. Again tuning and chassis setup is paramount. In 300 foot dirt drags I prefer a motor with more torque and acceleration. I use a tall gear and run all 5 gears.

I, TDR now have all the remaining T-Rex parts and have extensive background on porting and setup. I will be going thru all the remaining cylinders making improvements, changes and offer them early next year.

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welp i found a 68mm bore stock stroke t-rex.  i think its as cast  and holy hell i can see now why out of the box they run like crap,. this cylinder has one of the worst mis match casting to sleeve's i have ever seen.  BUT  they do have a ton of potential.  with porting and some internal work i think its going to run great.   unlike a cub i personally feel if you can get a rex to run good it shows you can actually port and not just assemble a motor.    now on to trying to find or build the larger sleeve,  get the sides welded up so i can have some transfer volume  and source a set of pistons that might actually work.  ( maybe DM 77mm? or the 76mm TDR has?)  

 

the other thing i am noticing with this cylinder is the thickness and build of the head.  in my OPINION it has a superior clamping surface and would handle some boost or NOS pretty well...    hopefully i can also source a set of wider pv blades to make the bigger bore work right...  

 

i feel if you look around you can buy one pretty dang cheap BUT if you cannot do the work yourself you are probably going to have a lot in one when its ready to go..  also seems the pistons are getting scarce.  if the sleeve was a little bit differnt i think a set of h-2's or cheetah/ cub pistons would work just fine. little bit of dome reworking and wala you have a decent top end.

 

ultimatly i think a set of alluminum sleeve's and nickplating would be the best on one of these.  but  then your talking a lot of $$$$$  

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Thanks for the info cam yeah man I got rid of those T rex cylinders and the dm that I was suppose to buy slipped through my hands so now I'm trying to choose out of 7milsuper wampus or supercub any info will help I've heard there almost the same but the wampus has a stock appearance

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i have a wampus i'm doing right now  its a neato cylinder.  a good eye will be able to tell they are not stock pretty easily.    the supercub isnt to bad but has had issues in the past with head sealing.  the bore and the sealing surface from using the screwed up bolt pattern of the banshee kinda makes them a tad weak.  there are heads available that are beefed up in the front areas to help with o-ring seal.  in my humble opinion go with a 68mm bore and 10mill crank if your wanting to use the cub casting.  the wompus or cub look is your choice... 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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