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DC Conversion


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also how much lights can run on this? Will the battery from my golf karts work?

It does not produce any more wattage than it did stock, from what I have read you actually lose a little wattage because of the way the rectifier converts AC into DC. But if you have a battery on it, you can probably run SLIGHTLY bigger lights off the battery at night and it will fully recharge the battery during daytime riding. It does not change the spark in anyway as the ignition circuit is completely seperate from the lighting/charging circuit which is the part(circuit) that is being modified.


What kind of battery is in your golf cart? If it is the traditional 6V deepcycle, then no it will not. If it is a 12V battery similar to a motorcycle, ATV, or lawnmower battery then it would probably work.

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  • 3 weeks later...

nice ,but its too bad matt or another guy on here couldnt have packaged it up pretty .instead of another big company making $ off an idea or the spark that created this dc set up for the shee. my 2 cents.

There really isn't anything to package up... You buy a regular/rectifier, and that's it. It's basic wiring other than that. I've seen batteries mounted in dozens of different places, so unless everyone agreed to mount a battery in the same spot, then a "kit" really can't exist. I mean, I could throw some wire, some shrink tubing, and some crimp ends in an envelope with a trailtech reg/rec, but my time is worth much more than it would cost you to buy the wire... lol


Not trying to sound like a dick, but nothing is really "plug n play" with a DC Conversion. People all have different harnesses with different things eliminated. Not to mention that a kit MUST include an already converted stator, which would have to be brand new to avoid liability issues, and then at that cost, it would be astronomical. No one would buy them.

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, I went to do this and my stator has a screw with a couple wires and a lug connected to the ground. It doesn't have the same configuration as the one in the picture. Is it possible to simply remove this screw and insulate the connection?


I can post a picture of it later tonight but I'm sure someone has seen this configuration.

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  • 4 weeks later...

okay guys. if your stator does not look like the one in the pic, with that cream, thick potting on it, or the connection is differnt, etc, it is not stock. yes, many aftermarket stators simply have an eyelet at the end, screwed into the metal. this is actually easier, as you can un-solder the eyelet and add a wire without messing with the potting "goo" another trick if the potting is difficult, is to heat it up with a micro-torch, and it comes off real easy, like skin on fried chicken, but cleaner. if you have a high output stator, and comes new with 2 yellow (or any color extra wire) a floating is still needed, but a second rectifier is needed to use full power. you can use a sno-go rectifier/regulator, or basically any orv reg/rec aftermarket, or factory, as long as it has the 2 inputs and 2 dc outputs (sometimes battery and power are provided, making 3 out)

the stock stator dc, or ac is good for 70watts. it can reach around 100watts at high rpms, but generally powers 70watts. rectifiers average a drop in voltage in the .5-1v range, but still useable, over 13v for the most part off-idle.

don't think anyone will do this, but keep the black wire in the harness the way it is. it connects the wire clip as a ground for the engine (spark) and should not be modified from harness ground.


any more ??'s?

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  • 10 months later...

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