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Grey gear oil?


Ronnie

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Engine oil- usually breaks down quickly under the stresses of wet-clutches and doesn't have the required properties to support wet clutches. It will work for a little while, but may break down sooner and glaze your clutch material.

 

MC/ATV oil- engine oil designed to support/withstand wet clutch and high pressures that gears produce. A typical 10w-30 is lighter than gear oil (less drag, less power loss)

 

ATF- designed for automotive automatic transmissions. Does well if kept under 200 degrees (think auto trans cooler). If your banshee sees short runs where it is allowed to cool down you can run this. Even lighter so it has the least drag and power loss. However, ATF has personally costed me a trip. After 6 hours of hard riding, my clutch glazed over/slipped and the oil reeked of foul burnt ATF.

 

Gear oil- Offers the most protection but is also the heaviest. More drag, more power loss.

 

Note- When I claim less/more power loss.... I'm talking so minimal you probably wouldn't even notice on the butt dyno.

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Nope, It says on it," contains friction reducing and anti-wear agents". also, I think 50 weight is to thick to get where it needs to be.

Any super cheap 10w-30 motor oil will due. or type f atf would be best.

 

 

Huh?

 

Please don't run "super cheap 10w-30 motor oil" and I wouldn't run ATF for long extended rides. I know from experience. Had some left over Royal Purple synthetic ATF. Thought I'd try it for a weekend trip. Got six hours in on saturday and the clutch started slipping bad enough that I couldn't jump a waterbreak properly (hit the gas and it would slip and I'd nose dive into the face of the next jump). Changed the oil back at camp but it was too late. My clutch fibers were glazed.

 

I'd stick with synthetic motorcycle oil or synthetic gear oil.

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I run klotz synthetic in mine only. But I thought we were talking about flushing the trans.

The factory manual says "any S.A.E. 10W30 motor oil" right in it.

No, not the best, but it does work. as long as the oil has no friction modifiers.

Type F ATF is a common substitute - I'd never run it.

And, GOFAST did you run Royal Purple Max ATF? It is not for Type F clutches at all, Their Racing ATF is.

Same as puting Dexron in your Ford, it won't go very far either without burning the clutches..

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Huh?

 

Please don't run "super cheap 10w-30 motor oil" and I wouldn't run ATF for long extended rides. I know from experience. Had some left over Royal Purple synthetic ATF. Thought I'd try it for a weekend trip. Got six hours in on saturday and the clutch started slipping bad enough that I couldn't jump a waterbreak properly (hit the gas and it would slip and I'd nose dive into the face of the next jump). Changed the oil back at camp but it was too late. My clutch fibers were glazed.

 

I'd stick with synthetic motorcycle oil or synthetic gear oil.

 

I've ran ATF and ran 20 races in a row at the dunes with no issues. I'm sure my oil was warmer than 200 degrees too.

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This stuff---->"Royal Purple Racing ATF"

 

Royal Purple’s Racing ATF is a high performance lubricant designed for automatic transmissions using Ford Type F fluids. Racing ATF is formulated to deliver firm, positive shifts for greater clutch life and consistency. Its exceptional oxidation resistance allows for extended use and more time between fluid changes compared to conventional and other synthetic fluids. Please consult Royal Purple’s automotive technical support department when choosing a transmission fluid.

 

 

Maybe Royal Purple is just expensive colored junk oil? The clutch itself had about 15 hours on it. It ruined my weekend and left a sour taste for ATF. Not to mention, the motor cases stunk for the rest of the season until I rebuilt the motor and was able to split the cases and stick them in the wife's dishwasher!

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This stuff---->"Royal Purple Racing ATF"

 

Royal Purple’s Racing ATF is a high performance lubricant designed for automatic transmissions using Ford Type F fluids. Racing ATF is formulated to deliver firm, positive shifts for greater clutch life and consistency. Its exceptional oxidation resistance allows for extended use and more time between fluid changes compared to conventional and other synthetic fluids. Please consult Royal Purple’s automotive technical support department when choosing a transmission fluid.

 

 

Maybe Royal Purple is just expensive colored junk oil? The clutch itself had about 15 hours on it. It ruined my weekend and left a sour taste for ATF. Not to mention, the motor cases stunk for the rest of the season until I rebuilt the motor and was able to split the cases and stick them in the wife's dishwasher!

 

By rights that should have been fine...But I'm old enough to think that "synthetic" oil is some kind of voodoo.

After much hesitation, I've changed to Motul in my fuel and Klotz in my trans, I even had my kid change every single drop of fluids to Royal Purple in my OLD Toyota truck in his auto shop class.

I'm happy with the changes in my 2 stroke, not impressed with the RP, was supposed to pick up mileage in the truck, I think the oils cost me over $250, I'll never recoup that in MPG's.

Maybe the key is to only use it for what it is labeled for.

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