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Posted

Hey there, great forum you have here! I just traded my 2008 Rubicon that needed a little TLC for a 2008 Banshee that has a fresh top end, wiesco .010 pistons, mild port and polish, T5 Pipes and Toomey Silencers, Cool Head with 20cc domes, billet water pump impellar, upgraded clutch springs, Pro Flo intake with K&N Filter....anyways I have been doing some reading and it looks like I should order a manual, do the TORS delete and a timing plate first, right? Also, it has always been ran on Amsoil, so I'll be mixing Dominator 40:1, sound right? Finally, is it worth the money to get a Boost Bottle off ebay? Just want to make sure I'm on the right track before diving in!

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Kevin

 

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Posted

It looks like the tors are already removed. And with the mods that it are alread has , I would bet there is already an after market timing plate on it.

 

 

What he said.

Welcome to BHQ. Very nice banshee! I would also ask...... I wonder why it was rebuilt already? It could be one of 2 reasons: the guy that owned it jetted too lean, and blew it up... Or.... He was just power hungry, and got new pistons while he was getting it ported. I tend to think he might have just been power hungry.... But I recommend you throw in some new spark plugs, ride it a bit, and check the plugs to see if it's lean, rich, or just right. Anyways... Welcome, and enjoy!

Posted

It has been debated about the functionalbility of a boost bottle. Most people think and myself that it does not make a difference. You PM me and pay the shipping, I will give you one for free.

Posted

Tors are already gone. I haven't seen any proof that a boost bottle does anything besides look shiny and cost money. There is definently controversy on that topic tho. Sweet lookin banshee by the way. I am curious as to why it's already been overhauled like the other guy said but I agree I would put some new plugs and look at them and make sure it's not lean now.

Posted

Don't waste money on BB, does nothing but crack intake boots. Luckily caught my son's before failure. Agree on the manual, makes working on it so much easier. Check that trans fluid looks fresh, lube the cables and rip it.

 

Welcome to BHQ !! Where you located ? :cheers:

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the welcomes! I'm in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

 

As far as I know, he rebuilt it for power. The guy I got it off was a pretty decent fella, no BS so I trust that was the reason. I will go get some plugs, but i pulled them anyways and they both look like this:

 

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I'm not sure about reading 2 stroke plugs yet, how should it look?

Edited by UberBricky
Posted

clean bike man !!!!.

plugs look rich but i dont know how old they are. looks like a bit of pitting on them too, maybe to much timing ?

 

to prevent a melt down again, pull the carbs and check what jetting its running, and pull the stator cover to see if it has a timing plate and where its set to. and do a comp test to see what PSI its kicking.

 

get some br8es plugs (they are cheaper than the ones you have and work well)

40:1 is fine.

 

welcome to the HQ

Posted (edited)

Alright, so I have a bit of work to do! I'll grab some plugs and give it a shot, and pull the cover off to see what I have. It's running 280's for jets too... Other than that I found the left pipe to be a little loose, I can't see an exhaust leak, is this normal when cold?

 

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Edited by UberBricky
Posted

280 could be a lil lean, as 280 main is the jetting for t5 pipes (close to sea level) with the lid on, but with 12 1" holes through out the box., so maybe 290-300 would be better with an open lid and K&N. that pipe looks like it got a bit hot too (lean) my t5's never left blueing like that, with 3years of abuse.

 

the pipe will move its only a oring seal, so a lil movement is ok.

 

 

your coming into winter too, so you will have to richen up the jetting for when it gets colder.

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