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UberBricky

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Everything posted by UberBricky

  1. I just trail ride and some sand dunes, nothing too wet but the K&N I have is like new with new outer wear, so would there be gains from adding pods?
  2. I am going to take the carbs out and rebuild them, just wondering what else I should do while the carbs are out? I am thinking reeds and an ignition system, and if not installed already, a timing plate. (not sure as I haven't had the cover off yet) It already has been ported, .010 over, T5's, cool head 20cc domes, single K&N airfilter.... Thanks!
  3. From NGK's site, I got curious to see what they recommend: 3. Gapping Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need. A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark. With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think.
  4. A plug gapping tool can be had for less than $5. Obviously, they work well out of the box. I'm used to gapping the plugs in my supercharged mustang so the spark doesnt blow out, for the 23 seconds it takes, I'm good with doing it. I'm just anal like that, the way I look at it is do you think top fuel dragsters run plugs out of the box? Not the exact context, just my frame of mind. What can I say, I can tell the old lady I need to gap my plugs, grab some beer and she'll leave me alone for a couple hours!
  5. I always check the gap on plugs, I'm running .30 also. IMO, the benefit is knowing you are consistent wit your setup.
  6. Alright, so I have a bit of work to do! I'll grab some plugs and give it a shot, and pull the cover off to see what I have. It's running 280's for jets too... Other than that I found the left pipe to be a little loose, I can't see an exhaust leak, is this normal when cold?
  7. Thanks for the welcomes! I'm in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada As far as I know, he rebuilt it for power. The guy I got it off was a pretty decent fella, no BS so I trust that was the reason. I will go get some plugs, but i pulled them anyways and they both look like this: I'm not sure about reading 2 stroke plugs yet, how should it look?
  8. Hey there, great forum you have here! I just traded my 2008 Rubicon that needed a little TLC for a 2008 Banshee that has a fresh top end, wiesco .010 pistons, mild port and polish, T5 Pipes and Toomey Silencers, Cool Head with 20cc domes, billet water pump impellar, upgraded clutch springs, Pro Flo intake with K&N Filter....anyways I have been doing some reading and it looks like I should order a manual, do the TORS delete and a timing plate first, right? Also, it has always been ran on Amsoil, so I'll be mixing Dominator 40:1, sound right? Finally, is it worth the money to get a Boost Bottle off ebay? Just want to make sure I'm on the right track before diving in! Thanks in advance! Kevin
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